Need a New Jacket for Fall? Outerknown Has You Covered

Kapital Does Berlin: Imposing Architecture and Innovative Clothing

Season after season, Japanese brand Kapital manages to excite, confound, inspire and captive with its range of clothing. Designs blend familiar and innovative ideas, and utilize top-tier construction and materials. The brand isn’t afraid to take risks and embrace esoteric or quirky concepts. Though operating in this creative space could be a risky business move for many brands, Kapital arrived here after decades of transformation.

Founded in 1984 by Toshikiyo Hirata, Kapital is an independent, family-owned clothing brand based in Okayama, Japan. Its factory initially produced jeans for notable brands like Studio D’Artisan, Denime and 45rpm, helping to establish Japan as the preeminent producer of denim. In 1995, Kapital opened its first store in Kojima and a year later it released its own of jeans called TK. Hirata’s son Kazuhiro (Kiro) joined the brand in 2001 after working as a designer for 45rpm and brought a new vision to the company.

Instead of just producing well-made historically-informed garments, Kiro created a range of new clothing inspired by sub-cultures, vintage apparel and ethnic traditions spanning the globe. Kapital embraces the individual craftsman behind each piece, and at the brand’s Kountry wash-house which was founded in 2010 outside Kojima, clothing is pre-distressed, dyed and mended.

Photo by Eric Kvatek.

With such experimental and unique clothing, the brand needed an alternative to bland industry-standard lookbooks. So they teamed up with Brookyln-based photographer Eric Kvatek to produce in-depth photo books, cataloging each season’s garments on unconventional models in peculiar locales. Over the past 15 years, Kvatek has shot Kapital books in locations like Mongolia, Lappland and Thailand. The titles are as diverse as the content: Azure Anarchy, Hooligan Ivy, Surf Cowboys, Peace Pilgrim, Bad Opera.

The latest book — called Denim Bauhaus — showcases Kiro’s FW2018 designs in Berlin, Germany. The urban setting is a departure from many Kapital books, and models are posed around Soviet-era buildings, historic landmarks and former US military installations. Formidable architecture — angular, imposing, bleak — is a canvas for intricate garments: an Ainu-pattern denim jacket, a Coogi-meets-boro cardigan, a puffy, woven ripstop vest.

To learn more about how the book came together, we caught up with Kvatek on one of his down days in NYC. Though Berlin certainly isn’t the most far-flung location he’s worked in, it provided a distinct setting to further showcase Kapital’s designs.

Q: What number book is this that you’ve shot for Kapital?
A: I just realized this is the 40th book I’ve shot for Kapital. So I guess it makes sense that we had a kind of “best of” crew of models.

Q: While urban locations aren’t frequent in Kapital’s books, you have shot in Paris, London and NYC for the brand. What made Berlin different and how did the architecture and environment inform the photography?
A: Kiro and I were both kinda inspired and excited about the new and old Blade Runner movies so we wanted a “past’s vision of the future” kinda setting. Berlin has these odd structures built during the Cold War that aren’t really famous so it’s not like, “Oh that’s the Eiffel Tower or London Bridge.”

Q: What was your camera setup for this book?
A: After 30 years of shooting, 20 years as a professional, I shoot 95 percent of my job photos with a Canon 1DX and a 50mm lens — no lights, no flash, no reflectors, no assistants. If one of the models pitches in and carries my bag, that’s a luxury.

Q: What initially stood out to you when scouting locations?
A: Berlin was actually kind of tough. I really dislike graffiti and Berlin is thoroughly and utterly covered in it. Not even “good” graffiti — it’s like a paint truck exploded, but not even as cool as that would be. I can’t even think of a diplomatic way to say it. It’s just inundated with horribly uninspired tags and scribbles. It’s unfortunate because it’s really such a beautiful, unique place. Eventually, I just had to get over it. 

Q: Is the more modern setting a reflection of Kiro’s designs this season, a conscious juxtaposition or just change for the sake of change?
A: There is a technical and innovative aspect to the clothing, so I think it made sense to consider a somewhat modern location. When I was shooting it, I never felt like this doesn’t make sense. The location and clothing really matched at the end of the day.

One thing I really strive for is to never change for the sake of change. Kiro’s turned out maybe 45 collections? I’ve shot 40 of those. It would be easy to copy ourselves and randomly flip things around occasionally for the hell of it. But Kiro’s really an amazingly thoughtful designer. He’s researching history. He’s imagining the future. He’s reinventing the wheel. But he’s also not in a bubble. He is aware of what’s going on elsewhere in the fashion world. Of course, some collections are more successful than others. Some of the shoots are more successful than others. If all we did is copy ourselves, maybe the photos would actually be better. But because we do take some chances, there’s the possibility of greatness and the risk of just sucking.

Photos by Eric Kvatek.

Q: Any favorite moments from your time in Berlin? Any favorite shots from the book?
A: Really just by chance, we had this sort of Reunion Tour — a bunch of models joined us from over the years. Most notably Anousha, who I discovered in Africa ten years ago. We had not shot with her since 2013. Also, Timea from Budapest and my guys from Paris. It’s strange because these are some of my best friends and I only see them once or twice a year if I’m lucky.

I think I once read that the difference between Japanese and American photographers is that for Japanese photographers, the body of work is the emphasis, whereas American photographers are more concerned with the individual shot. If that’s true, then I have to say for this shooting, it’s more in the vein of a Japanese perspective — it’s really more about the entirety. There are some shots that I prefer, but to single them out doesn’t really benefit the whole.

Q: After shooting so many books for the brand, how do you continue to stay creative?
A: That’s a tough one. Because most of us innately prefer our comfort zone which entails that we resist change, resist growth. Perhaps my childhood uniquely prepared me to avoid that. My family was forced to move often and unexpectedly, so as a youth, I adjusted to upheaval. I lost best friends and comfort zones at the drop of a hat. Eventually, this becomes normal, and then its no longer a negative state of being. Another way to look at it, and maybe it’s an oversimplification, but a lot of guys I know cling to the 10 favorite songs they loved in high school or college. Yeah, I still like those songs, but I’d rather listen to music I’ve never heard before, than my 10 favorite songs. I love discovering some new gem. So maybe that carries over into photography. I have my bag of tricks to be certain, but I kinda love being freaked out and in a near panic and then bringing it back from the brink of failure.

New Releases

Leopard Print Fleece Zip Jacket by Kapital ~$216

MA-1 Jersey Army Sweat Blouson by Kapital ~$216

7G Knit Boro Gaudy Cardigan by Kapital ~$378

10 oz IDG × IDG Denim Attus Jacket by Kapital ~$558

Ripstop Nylon Keel Weaving Vest by Kapital ~$1,215

Editor’s Note: Kapital only ships within Japan. If you’re interested in garments from the FW2018 collection, you can purchase select items from North American stores soon (check Mr Porter, Haven and Unionmade, among others) or you can read more about buying goods from Japan.

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5 Aluminum Carry Ons that Are Worth the Weight

Tumi Just Released its First Line of Bags Made from Recycled Material

The idea that sustainably made things can’t also be stylish has, thankfully, fallen by the wayside. And that’s due in large part to brands that are focusing on making great-looking products out of responsible materials, like Outerknown and Patagonia. This week, Tumi entered that fray with its first line of bags made primarily from recycled fabrics.

The Recycled Capsule uses a blend of 70 percent recycled content and 30 percent virgin materials across six bags: a pouch, a sling bag and four backpacks, priced from $95 to $425. (The London Roll Top Bag is the one pictured above.) The recycled portion is made from plastic bottles that Tumi spun into the nylon interiors and exterior details for each bag.

It’s the first time the brand has incorporated recycled fibers into its wares, but that doesn’t mean any of its other bags and luggage aren’t sustainable. Tumi’s other bags are built to last from some of the most durable metals and fabrics in the luggage industry. These bags are, too, and they’re the first step in making Tumi a more sustainable company. It’s part of what the brand’s creative director Victor Sanz says is part of an attempt to reduce Tumi’s “carbon footprint through a global strategy aimed at reducing our energy consumption and waste.” And it looks good, too.

Byredo’s New Fragrance Smells Like the End of the World, in a Good Way

No one knows for sure what the end times are going to look like — but Ben Gorham, the man behind the fragrance house Byredo, has some thoughts about how they might smell.

His new fragrance, Eleventh Hour, is described as “an exploration around the smell of things ending, a journey to the end of time, the last perfume on Earth.” It’s name even feels like a reference to the Doomsday Clock. In an email, Gorham told Gear Patrol that he drew inspiration from the idea that rising sea levels and flooding might mean “that the last place on Earth would be the highest place on Earth, which brought me to some of these raw materials that I based the fragrance on.”

“Essentially, what making a perfume in that region solely would smell like,” he said.

That region is the Himalayas, and the fragrance that resulted from Gorham’s exploration of it is earthy and peppery without being overly sharp. It includes ban timmur (a pepper that grows in Nepal), carrot seeds, wild figs, tonka bean and cashmere wood, among other ingredients.

And while Gorham isn’t exactly a doomsday prepper, he did collaborate with a handful of outdoor brands on a few products to sell with the fragrance, which debuted in a pop-up shop in Paris this weekend. There, you’ll find specially branded Leatherman multitools, Stanley insulated bottles and lightweight titanium cookware from Vargo. (There are also sleeping bags, hiking boots and other things you might want to have on hand if civilization ever collapses.)

If it doesn’t? That’s OK too. Gorham told us this project was, in part, born from the gloomy narrative that’s taken hold of the world over the past few years. “But it’s also very much connected to this idea of nature as an escape,” he said. “I think my travels and interests have brought me into some pretty amazing places. And I would say that Eleventh Hour is really a combination of these two ideas.”

The Best Leather Jackets to Buy This Fall

Like a lot of the clothing guys wear today, the leather jacket got its start as a utilitarian object. There was no need for a bomber jacket, a motorcycle jacket or a racing jacket before the inventions of the airplane, the motorcycle or the automobile.

But leather jackets didn’t make their widespread style debut until after World War II, when the idea of leather for style, instead of purely for function, started seeping into popular culture.

After sky-rocketing to popularity by way of Marlon Brando in the film The Wild One, the motorcycle jacket became such a symbol of youth in revolt that it was banned in schools for an entire year in the mid-1950s. And this helped place them on the backs of guys who wanted to telegraph rebel cool, gaining popularity throughout the 60s, 70s, and 80s.

“[For] everybody from Elvis to The Beatles, to The Stones, every psychedelic band from the Jefferson Airplane to the Grateful Dead, it was like a rite of passage,” said Michael Paradise, a former employee of North Beach Leathers who now owns The Stronghold, a heritage clothing boutique in Los Angeles. “You signed a recording contract, you got your first paycheck, you went to North Beach Leather.”

They’re now an indispensable part of a man’s wardrobe — and guys who work in more casual settings can get away with swapping a minimal black, brown or navy leather jacket for a blazer. It’s more durable, water repellent, and looks just as good over jeans as it does with a pair of tailored trousers.

With so many options on the market, finding the perfect one for you can take a lot of time and research — and it’s worth taking your time. Because unlike other clothing, buying a leather jacket is like buying a piece of furniture. Pick the right version and you’ll have it for years to come. Go with the wrong thing, and you might end up making an expensive mistake.

To help shorten your list of candidates, we compiled our favorites across four major categories. We also spoke with experts about style, fit, quality and care to help inform your purchase. Here are our recommendations, from the save-a-little level to splurges that might break the bank, and a guide to making sure your newest style investment lasts a lifetime.

Motorcycle Jackets

The classic motorcycle jacket is an immediate marker of rebel cool. In fact, it’s been used in so many movies and TV shows as shorthand for “bad boy” that it should be a tiresome cliché at this point — and yet its magic still works. Throw one on and you’ll immediately embody the rugged charm and sex appeal of every style icon of the last several decades. The best thing about a biker jacket, providing you get one worth its skin, is that it keeps getting better with age.

Allsaints Estello Leather Biker Jacket

Made from soft, lightweight lambskin, the Estello biker jacket is a true multi-season must have. Because it’s so soft it drapes and forms to your body almost immediately. Its quilted detailing makes it a great choice for any guy who wants to wear his jealther jacket with a t-shirt in cool weather.

Schott Perfecto Slim-Fit Leather Biker Jacket

The original American motorcycle jacket is still in production 90 years after its invention. So if authenticity and legitimacy are important to you, this is the jacket to get. And because it’s cut from such thick leather, it’s also your best choice if you’re actually going to ride a motorcycle.

John Elliott Slim-Fit Leather Biker Jacket

You may know John Elliott for his eponymous streetwear line, but that’s far from where his talent ends. This Mr. Porter exclusive has lots of sharp-looking bells and whistles: three front zipper pockets, nickel snaps, epaulets, and zippered cuffs. It’s also fully lined to keep you warm (but not too warm).

Bomber Jackets

Originally worn by Air Force pilots to keep warm at high altitudes, the leather bomber jacket has come a long way from its pragmatic beginnings. But for the most part, its design has stayed true its roots.

Today, it’s among the most popular menswear items on the market thanks to male celebrities who rely on it to make them look well-dressed, but not dressed up and cool but not too edgy. “It’s a safe bet, like a pair of jeans,” says Jeanne Yang, stylist to a list of guys that includes John Cho, Alexander Skarsgaard and Robert Downey, Jr., among others. “If you’re gonna spend the money, it’s something you know you can keep on rotation in your closet.”

The Arrivals Ford Leather Bomber Jacket

A slimmer, more fashionable take on Indiana Jones’s famous rig. The Arrivals is known for high-quality products at beginner-level prices—and they come with a lifetime warranty. This model is also pre-treated to protect it against water and stains.

Golden Bear Black Zip Front Baseball Jacket

Golden Bear has been crafting quality leather jackets since 1922, originally serving dockworkers lugging cargo out of San Francisco Bay. This baseball-style bomber will still stand up to heavy work and harsh climates, so it can handle your morning commute without a problem.

Mr P. Leather Bomber Jacket

If you’re looking for something that isn’t all black, your next best option is navy blue. This model is just as versatile as a black version, but it’ll also ensure you don’t show up to work wearing the same jacket as your cubicle mate.

Racing Jackets

If you’ve ever watched Easy Rider or seen a photo of Keanu Reeves, you know that leather racing jackets aren’t meant for kids. The collarless gems have all the testosterone of a motorcycle jacket — but none of the 1950s Danny Zucko theatrics. Plus, they come in a wide array of styles from pared-down suede numbers to more souped-up versions with quilted shoulders and elbows.

Reiss Jacob Suede Jacket in Navy

If you’re into the design of a racing jacket but looking for something a little softer, this is the one for you.. Made of supple navy blue suede Reiss’s Jacob jacket pairs exceedingly well with a pair of your fanciest work trousers.

Lewis Leathers Racing Jacket No. 442

Lewis Leathers has been outfitting men in leather since 1892. That’s plenty of time to perfect every last detail. Their racing jacket features quilted and padded shoulder and elbow patches, four pockets and adjustable straps at the waist. Each Lewis Leathers jacket is made to your specific body measurements, making it well worth the price.

Sandro Leather Jacket with Quilted Trims

Sandro’s take on the leather racing jacket embodies the best of both luxurious materials and streamlined design. Its tough quilted shoulders are crafted from buttery lambskin, and the gusseted sides make for a slim yet comfortable fit.

Shearling Jackets

Shearling (the skin and fur of a sheep) is nature’s warmest material. Because of that, most jackets cut from it can lean toward the higher side of the price spectrum. They can also be tough for some guys to pull off.

“Shearling is a great look but you have to find the proper fit for you,” says Donnell Baldwin, a New York-based menswear stylist. “Many shearling jackets are long and could be ‘a lot of look’ for a shorter guy. If that’s you, you’ll need to find a short version that complements your height and style.”

Spending upwards of $2,000 on a shearling jacket that you can hand down to the next generation isn’t any more frivolous than investing in a luxurious watch. Here are three worth saving for.

Isabel Marant Anders Shearling-Lined Leather Jacket

The rich caramel brown color of this Isabel Marant shearling jacket is a refreshing swap for the classic tan and beige you’ll see everywhere this winter.

RRL Slim-Fit Shearling Jacket

Inspired by the bomber jackets worn by American pilots in the 40s, this RRL shearling is a menswear nerd’s holy grail. Two envelope patch pockets, waist tabs, and a buttoned throat latch are the kind of artfully designed details we’ve come to expect from the brand.

Dunhill Shearling Leather Jacket

Dunhill, the brand that pivoted from saddle design to luxury clothing and accessories in 1893, is still wowing us today. And this made-in-Italy number is no exception. If you’re able to drop this kind of dough we think it should be spent on something with a significant history and a construction that’ll last for years to come.

5 Tips for Taking Good Care of Your Leather Jacket

This is the part where we tell you not to throw an investment-level jacket on a pile of clothes — or worse, the floor — after each time you wear it. Your new jacket deserves proper care, and luckily that’s pretty easy to deliver. We asked David Mesquita, co-owner and vice president of Leather Spa, how to give your jacket its best life possible.

An Ounce of Prevention

“Leather is just like our skin, we put moisturizer on in the winter because our skin gets dry. It’s the same with the leather jackets. As you’re wearing it, rubbing up against stuff, the natural oils in the skin are gonna wear out,” Mesquita says.

Leather Conditioner by Leather Spa $13

Before you wear a new leather jacket the first time, spray your jacket with water and stain protector, especially if it’s made of suede. Then at least once a season, you’ll want to condition your jacket to keep the leather from drying out. “If it’s something you wear often, you might have to do a conditioning in the middle of the season versus waiting till the end,” he added. “A good rule of thumb is you can always look at the jacket and you start to see some fading. That could be a sign of it drying out and you should apply some moisturizer.”

But fair warning: it may darken the color of your jacket. If you’re not sure how much to use or nervous about application, ask a professional.

Give it Some Space

There’s nothing wrong with storing your jacket in the back of your closet during the offseason. But you want to make sure it has room to breathe and hang naturally. Don’t cram it into an overcrowded closet or store it folded under heavy coats and sweaters. Marks from creases and folds can’t be ironed out of leather the way they can with other fabrics. So you want to avoid any undue pressure for long periods of time. To keep your jacket next-level fresh, consider keeping a box of baking soda or a sachet of cedar chips in your closet.

Hang Tight

Never hang your leather jacket on wire or thin hangers. Instead, spend some money on wooden hangers with adequate shoulder support.

“I wouldn’t let it sit on one of those thin hangers for too long because it stretches the shoulders out and leaves that imprint,” Mesquita said. “The best way to store leather items is in the fabric garment bag you get when you purchase the jacket because they’re breathable. God forbid you have your jacket in a storage unit and there’s some type of humidity or moisture that gets trapped in there.”

Clean it Fast

Spilled beer, motorcycle grease and other kinds of dirt are going to happen. But don’t let stains sit for more than an hour or two, or they’ll require professional cleaning.

“If you get a stain on it or a mark, you want to treat it right away before it penetrates into the pores of the skin and becomes permanent like a tattoo,” Mesquita says. “The best time for any type of care is when you get home just before putting it away in your closet. Look it over, and if you see a little spot or a blemish just rub it right off before it becomes permanent. Or use a little bit of a spot cleaner and then just rub it right off.”

Know When to Go Pro

For anything more intense than a spilled beer or a spot of dirt go straight to a pro. Trying to fix something without the proper training could just lead you down a path to more trouble. Put simply, “If its a jacket that you spent a lot of money on, you’re better off taking it to a professional,” Mesquita says.

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

This Fall, Invest in a Better Pair of Glasses

Out of your entire wardrobe — clothing, shoes, accessories — your glasses are most closely associated with your personal style. You wear the same pair every day for years at a time, so it makes sense to invest in a quality pair that speaks to your own taste. While the typical optical shop has an assortment of serviceable glasses, it’s worth exploring the range of independent options found in smaller boutiques if you’re looking for something more distinctive. Though the price of these frames can be higher, they feature top-tier Japanese, French, German and Italian manufacturing and utilize industry-leading materials, so there’s real value in each pair. Below are some of the top brands to check out before updating your prescription.

Moscot Sechel

This iconic style from New York brand Moscot is handcrafted from Italian acetate. It features real rivets, 5-barrel hinges and is available in two sizes and three different colorways.

David Kind Wexler

Made in Japan, these lightweight glasses feature a thin acetate front and pure titanium temples. The price includes prescription lenses with anti-reflective coatings and the glasses are backed by an incredible 10-year warranty.

Salt. Optics Brody

Southern California-based Salt. produces all its frames in Sabae, Japan. The Brody is handcrafted from acetate in a Black Oak colorway: a distinct black front with a tortoise back.

Ahlem Rue Froissart

The Rue Froissart frames are handmade in Oyonnax, France from Mazzucchelli cellulose acetate. They feature 5-barrel hinges, real rivets and beveled temples for a comfortable fit.

Mykita Tona

These minimal frames are made in Germany from lightweight stainless steel and feature Mykita’s patented spiral hinge. For added comfort, they include acetate temple tips and nose pads, and are individually adjustable.

Jacques Marie Mage Molino

This limited-edition frame is inspired by Carlo Mollino, the famous Italian architect and designer. Made in Japan from a thick 10mm acetate, they feature sterling silver hardware and subtle beveling.

Barton Perreira Alvar

Made from filigree-detailed polished titanium, these Japanese-made frames are accented with beveled tortoiseshell acetate. Inspired by Alvar Aalto, they feature rounded square shape lenses and clear nose pads.

Masahiro Maruyama MM-0014

These unique Japanese frames are slightly asymmetrical and feature a polished irregular outline. Milled from a solid titanium block, they are durable, lightweight and hypoallergenic. The design features adjustable nosepads and fully-riveted hinges.

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.