This Is the Reason Why Sweatshirts Have a V at the Neck

Welcome to Further Details, a series dedicated to ubiquitous but overlooked elements hidden on your favorite products. This week: the V at the neck of your sweatshirt.

Take a look at your sweatshirts. You might notice that some have a peculiar feature at the neck — a V-shaped stitch that sits right at the middle of the collar. Why is it there? It’s a confounding detail that has stumped people for years.

That little detail goes by a few names, most commonly the V-insert, V-stitch and, its tastiest moniker, the Dorito. You won’t find it on every sweatshirt, though. It’s become less prevalent over the years and was phased out by many brands, fueling the confusion surrounding its intent.

Originally, the design was a ribbed knit material that was inserted at the collar and stitched into place. It served two main purposes: Like the ribbing at the sleeves and at the hem, the ribbed insert allowed the wearer to more easily don the garment without it losing shape. As the wearer would get their head through the neck of the sweatshirt, the V-insert would stretch to accommodate. The elasticity of the ribbing could stretch as needed without losing integrity.

The second reason is that it helped to absorb sweat. If you’ve seen someone sweat through a crewneck, you’ll know that the chest is a major point of perspiration. Though, the V-insert could only take so much.

Early versions saw the V-insert at both the front and the back of the collar while others would just have one at the front. Eventually, the detail became merely decorative as companies began to stitch a V at the collar without the ribbed material, weening the consumer before leaving it out altogether.

But, the recent resurgence of heritage brands and a focus on vintage influences has brought the V-insert back into vogue as brands like Merz B. Schwanen, Buzz Rickson’s and Champion Reverse Weave look to capitalize on archival styles. Whether you use yours to catch some sweat or the one you’ve got is purely ornamental, you now have a new fun fact to share.

These Jaw-Dropping Jeans Are Supposed to Cost $300. They’re Just $129

If you’re a fan of tech, if you obsess over everyday carry or are particular about your style, you’ve likely heard of Drop. Drop sells products from respected brands across an array of interests ranging from mechanical keyboards to hi-fi audio, knives and more. It’s unique in that it not only collaborates with esteemed names, but also with its own community of members, self-professed obsessives, enthusiasts and, lovingly, nerds. Today, Drop’s latest release takes on the denimhead community with the Ibara Slim Rinse Jeans.

While Drop has collaborated with venerated denim brands like Raleigh, Companion and Naked & Famous, this is its first solo jean. And unlike so many other startup denim brands, this isn’t a cookie-cutter pet project. “What we wanted to do was to make the ultimate enthusiast jean that was accessible to a bigger audience,” says Drop’s senior product manager of wearables John Webb. “And not just price-accessible, but wear-accessible, too.”

In Drop’s journey, they managed to find the Japanese factory making jeans for the world’s best brands. Located in the denim capital of Kojima, this factory is a go-to for runway designers and niche denim brands alike. They also got one of the top male fit models to dial in the perfect fit. In this case, that fit is a relaxed slim fit with a medium rise. And through it all, Drop worked tirelessly with denim developers who’ve worked with the biggest jeans brands to develop a very specific denim, just for these inaugural jeans.

“You get the best of both worlds as far as the denim goes,” Webb says. “You get high comfort and high character from the beginning.” At 15 ounces, the fabric tips the scales more than your average pair (usually, this about 12 ounces). That 25 percent extra beef is the first thing you’ll notice when you put them on. If a typical pair of jeans is a dress sock, these are more like a gym sock. While the heft is apparent, it’s also surprisingly pliable from the get-go and doesn’t feel like, in Webb’s words, a pizza box. That’s because the denim is woven at such a low tension. This makes the fabric more open and loose, so it’s more comfortable from the beginning, unlike a fair amount of other jeans at this weight. While the low-tension weave is great for comfort, the denim also feels more like a heavyweight denim thanks to the yarns. Instead of aiming for a perfectly smooth denim that uses a uniform yarn width, Drop opted for a denim that has three different widths of yarn to give it a beautiful variance that will become even more pronounced with wear.

As for the denimhead details, there are plenty. First, the jeans have the requisite selvedge detail at the outside hem. Bonus points for the narrow selvedge seam allowance, too. Most companies that show off their selvedge at the side seams leave about an inch of seam allowance. But a narrower selvedge seam allowance takes some more precision. The Ibaras also show off the selvedge detail at the coin pocket as well as both sides of the inside of the button fly.

The yoke of the jeans are also lined with heavy cotton herringbone fabric, which is also used for the pocket bags. Lining the yoke helps to keep the jean’s shape while also extending the life of the jean.

The pockets are set firmly into place using concealed rivets, which will wear through denim over time. It’s a detail that first appeared in the 1930s after customers complained that exposed rivets at the back pockets were damaging their furniture. Today, the denim die-hards seek out this detail which has all but faded, at least in America.

Speaking of hardware, Drop spared no expense and went with the higher-quality YKK Japan rivets and buttons, both of which will age alongside the denim, not to mention the natural vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch at the waistband. Look closely at that patch and you’ll notice that it’s stitched in one continuous line along with the waistband itself, rather than separately like most jeans. Even then, Webb’s favorite detail might be missed if you weren’t in person to feel it. When we talked with him about his favorite detail, Webb mentioned the belt loops. “The belt loops are ridged so that they’ll show more aggressive wear,” he says. “We had to build special folders for those. A lot of that, especially with the folder, needs a skilled sewer.” In the belt loops as well as at the top of the front and back pockets, is an extra piece of fabric that creates a ridge in the folds. It’s a detail that even the sharpest eyes can miss, jeansmakers included.

While plenty of small brands have looked to hitch a ride on the selvedge denim train, most are merely following the preset route laid before them, grabbing the lowest hanging fruit along the way — a lifeless mid-weight denim whose only merit is selvedge cut into a generic slim-straight fit. There’s not anything exactly offensive about that (it’s a hell of a lot better than most of the garbage jeans out there), but jeans can be so much more. Drop understands that. “We’re not a super-powerful denim brand,” Webb says, “But the jean, for what it is, is a hell of a jean.”

The jeans are available for $129 in a wide range of sizes from 28-42 and they officially release today.

House Slippers Are Overrated. Get These Instead

Homes turned into offices when stay-at-home orders were enacted and the need to delineate between the two became evident. We scrambled to brace for impact, but also to accommodate for our new normals, eyeing everything around the home/office that needed to upgrade and to adapt. Suddenly, we realized our home decor was lacking desks and desk chairs. We didn’t know how to bake bread, let alone have the proper ingredients and tools to do so. While many still get dressed to go to the office (kitchen tables, as it turns out, are desk height), others remain steadfast pajama stans. If you’re like the many who’ve realized that their shoe lineup is missing a good pair of house slippers, you’ve probably pondered which pair to get. After all, you are at home all the time, now.

But you don’t need house slippers. I’m not saying that they aren’t cozy or comfortable or that they don’t keep your feet clean from dusty floors. But I am saying that they’re not versatile. And in our quarantined state, when the office is now the home, slippers just won’t do.

A good pair of non-slipper slippers are ones that can straddle between the two. They’re a hybrid between home and work, comfortable and at place in either setting. They can be sandals, they can be sneakers, they can be clogs. Hell, they can even be dress shoes. Whatever they are, they should be laceless. Laces are a necessary annoyance that comes with getting dressed, but the act of tying your shoes says something else. It doesn’t say “I’m chilling at home today,” rather, it ties a bow on the phrase, “I’m going out.”

Like a pair of house slippers, shoes without laces aren’t fussy to get into. You can slip into them easily without the ritual of tying up, a luxury when your body isn’t all the way ready to wake up. And they’re just as easy to slip out of when you decide you need just five more minutes under the covers.

But a major difference is that these shoes are equipped to take on the outside world if need be, and if that need is groceries. Whether it’s a pair of sneakers, loafers, moccasins or espadrilles, the right pair of laceless shoes have more support than your average house slipper. When you’ve got a sprightly golden retriever who’s batteries are overloaded, you’re better off keeping pace with some Vans than a traditional pair of slippers.

A solid pair of slip-ons knows when to chill but also when to get up and go. It can navigate work, play and relaxation, each at a moment’s notice or all at once. While that might qualify it for a title of Master of None, but it’s pretty damn good at all of them.

Classic Slip On by Vans $50

Lister Slip On Sneakers by Stepney Workers Club $75

Authentic Original by Sperry $95

Pablo Canvas Espadrilles by Castaner $110

Larson Weejuns by GH Bass & Co. $110

Cancun by Chamula $121

Boston by Birkenstock $140

Otzi Sandals by Unmarked $220

Beefroll Penny Loafer by Oak Street Bootmakers $328

Leisure Penny Loafer by Alden $583

Roos Bit Loafer by Gucci $585

Going to Cut Your Own Hair? Use These Barber-Approved Grooming Tools

We can’t count on much these days, but one thing is for sure — your hair is getting defiant and it’s not gonna stop. Normally, you tell people you get your hair cut every four to six weeks, but you actually milk it to two months with the help of a ball cap. Now you’re past that. You’ve gone from Forrest Gump to Cast Away and you’re tempted to tame the mane yourself.

But before you do something rash, you want to have the right tools for the job (please step away from the checkout screen). We talked with New York City barber, Joey Galamad of Cotter Barber about the actual equipment he and many other barbers use as well as how to use them.

Grooming Products

“Before you experiment with cutting, experiment with styling and products you have lying around because it could lead you to something new,” Galamad says. If you don’t use one already, try using a blow dryer. It can allow you to experiment with new hairstyles in ways you couldn’t without one. Styling your hair with a comb and a blow dryer can get your hair to lay in directions it might not otherwise naturally. Your usual cut may not work for you at its current length, but another style might.

“This is the time to experiment,” Galamand says. “Many people are afraid of not washing their hair because it gets greasy. You’re not seeing anyone now — try not shampooing for a couple days.” Getting into a routine of shampooing less can really give your hair new life. It can make it more mobile. Over-shampooing your hair can strip it of its natural oils which are beneficial to your hair’s overall health.

YS Park Comb

“This YS Park comb is kind of the gold standard for barbers, but any drug store comb will do,” Galamand says. “Just look for a rigid spine and combination of fine and wide teeth.” You might opt for the paddle brush or round brush you have, but those brushes are designed for styling, not cutting and sectioning. Try and avoid these. Combs offer more precise styling than brushes, which is essential when cutting. Plus, you can still style your hair with a comb. “Anything with bristles is going to make your life harder,” he says. “You want consistently spaced plastic or metal teeth for accuracy.”

With a comb and damp hair (not wet, but not completely dry), isolate as much of the top hair from the sides as you can before you take the clippers to the sides and back. Once you’ve done that, comb the hairs at sides and back of your head straight down. If your hair has a part, make sure to use the comb to part it as best you can. Once you have your hair parted, you can see the shape of your hair more accurately and thus get a better trim.

Wahl Professional 5-Star Magic Clip

“This was pretty much every barber’s first clipper,” Galamad says. “And it’s as reliable as you could want if you’re cutting at home.” It’s cordless and relatively light, making it easier to reach all the hard-to-reach areas along the nape. Though cordless clippers are typically less powerful than corded options, the Wahl Magic Clip is more than enough for DIY jobs.

It’s a little more expensive than one you might get at the drug store, but Galamand says it’s totally worth it. “Cheaper alternatives won’t cut hair as evenly or effectively and will require numerous passes in order to catch every hair,” he notes. Many cheaper clippers will actually miss hairs as you run them through your hair, leaving a mess for you to clean up.

If you settle, you’ll just end up paying for it by spending more time passing the clippers through your hair to cut all the strands evenly. It’s a problem that’s highlighted when you get to awkward spots like the back of the crown. So, you’re paying a little more to save yourself time and frustration.

As far as using the clippers, they’ll come with several attachments and guards which should be numbered from 1-8. If your hairstyle is like a crew cut with sides that gradually get shorter from the crown downward, Galamad cautions not to use anything less than a 2. Below that, it gets difficult to blend. “Take a four, come straight off the head, do a two underneath that, and that’ll make it look really clean.”

Andis Slimline Pro Li Trimmer

For maintaining beards, Galamad recommends finding a trimmer that’s cordless and has a deep tooth. The Andis Slimline Pro is his recommendation. “It has deeper teeth which allow for bulk beard-cutting without pull or drag, and it’s cordless,” he says. “It’s also the lightest option available to allow for maneuvering and cutting in all directions and along all growth patterns precisely.” Smaller trimmers have narrow teeth that are better for detailing, but they’re not what you want for tackling thick beards. The narrow teeth will drag though the beard, pulling hairs along (ouch!) instead of gliding through it.

The Art of Shaving Safety Razor

When you get to cleaning up the sideburns and your neck, or if you want a close shave while you’re already in the groove of cutting hair, Galamad recommends a good safety razor like this one from The Art of Shaving. “While regular cartridge razors do the trick, single blades are better for your skin, a cheaper alternative in the long run, and allow for more precise edging of your beard,” he says. Straight razors are great, too, but they have a steeper learning curve. That’s why Galamad suggests most people use safety razors instead. Whichever razor you buy, just make sure you’re buying compatible razor blades.

For a close shave, take a hot, steamed towel and apply it to the skin you’re going to shave. After about 10 seconds, the heat will have gotten your hairs to stand up, making them easier to shave. Once you’ve shaved, apply a toner and aftershave balm.

Wait, what about scissors?

“Leave that to the pros,” Galamad says. “You’re either gonna cut yourself or give yourself a really poor haircut on the top. As long as you clean up the sides, you shouldn’t need scissors.” Instead, he suggests growing out your hair and working with your current style before you try cutting the top portion of your head. Simply cleaning up the sides and the back can do more than you think. Though it may not sound like enough, oftentimes it’s all you need to refresh a cut. Take your time and pay attention when clearing the hair around your ears. Remember, you can always cut more.

23 Style Releases We’re Completely Obsessed With This Week

May is here and so are the latest and greatest jawnz. As show and tell is part of our job description, we’ve toiled through countless browser tabs agonizing about which pieces to put on this list and which ones to put into our carts. Those choices aren’t exactly mutually exclusive. And we won’t tell you which list is bigger.

But, we will let you in on what we think are some of the best new style releases of the week. From vegan footwear to hoodies you should smoke into shorts that require a strong cocktail, it’s all here.

Jacques Marie Mage Fellini Noir Sunglasses

La Dolce Occhiali.

Battenwear Madras Project Golf Jacket

I’m not exactly into golf, but I’m very into dope jackets.

G.H. Bass & Co. x Fred Perry

For your mod styling consideration, we present to you Fred Perry’s penny loafers made in cahoots with G.H. Bass & Co.

Aimé Leon Dore Spray Dye Leisure Shirt

Oceanic vibes.

Outerknown x Toms Lagoon Sandals

These flip flops double as a beach cleanup.

Todd Snyder x Sebago

Todd Snyder and Sebago link up for the first time and we hope it’s not the last.

Flint and Tinder Unlined Waxed Trucker Jacket

Your favorite trucker jacket is now your favorite rain jacket.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1966 Japan 501

Levi’s makes the jump to Japanese manufacturing.

Marni ’50s Fresco Wool Shirt

Shirts can have back pockets, too? What a time to be alive.

Birdwell Cayucos Pullover Hoodie

Inspired by vintage hoodies, Birdwell’s take on a heritage sportswear style comes at a surprisingly good price.

Jungle Mikala Barkcloth Shorts

Pairs well with a strong tiki drink.

11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi x Salomon Edition Bamba 5 Sneakers

Salomon and Boris Bidjan Saberi return for a sequel to their coveted collab which feels like it came straight from finishing a marathon in Tron.

Ground-Cover 8-eye Work Boot

Goodyear-welted boots that are totally vegan.

Junya Watanabe Button-Down Collar Panelled Camouflage and Striped Cotton Shirt

Junya Watanabe takes the striped shirt to the next level.

Nonnative Rancher Zip Boot

Cool ranch.

Pilgrim Surf Supply Todd St. John Pizza Tee

Pizza for a good cause, as if I needed more convincing.

Iron Heart x Wesco “Mister Lou” Natural Leather Engineer Boot

Definitely not vegan, but they are vegetable-tanned.

Mister Green Multi Leopard Logo Hoodie

This hoodie says “I smoke weed in wheel pose”.

New Balance x WTAPS M992WT

Another first collaboration, this time with New Balance and cult Japanese brand WTAPS. These made-in-USA sneaks are military-inspired, using premium pigskin suede panels, reflective accents and hi-vis orange details for a shoe that’s anything but drab.

A Vontade Selvedge Parka

If a jacket’s not gonna give you the decency of buttons or zippers, it should at least have some good pockets.

Viberg Intense Blue Tumbled Shell Cordovan Collection

Very, very fancy footwear.

J.Crew 7″ Pool Short in Seersucker

These shorts are good whether or not there’s a pool involved, so I’ll be wearing these on my fire escape, thanks.

Niche Nelson Slip-On Mule

House slippers so good you’ll want to take them outdoors.

Levi’s Just Launched These Insane Japanese Jeans and They’re Already Sold Out

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Made in Japan

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Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

The latest jeans to emerge from preeminent denim brand Levi’s is a major turning point. For over a century, Levi’s got its supply of shrink-to-fit indigo-dyed selvedge denim from the historic Cone Mills denim mill, specifically from its White Oak plant in Greensboro, North Carolina. But American manufacturing had been on an excruciating descent since the 1980s. When the White Oak plant finally shuddered in 2017, it stunned countless brands and denim fans. But, Levi’s found an alternative for its top-shelf reproduction sub-label Levi’s Vintage Clothing in another denim mecca — Japan.

The jeans are based off of the 1966 501, a mid-rise jean with regular fit and period-accurate details. The only difference is its Japanese provenance. From the 12-ounce selvedge denim fabric to the sewing, even the famed Levi’s Red Tab is written in Japanese kanji (not to mention all of the branded buttons).

The 1966 501 was a style that was first re-introduced solely for the Japanese market in the 1990s before being re-re-introduced to the American market in the aughts through Levi’s Vintage Clothing. With the production torch being passed to Japan, this jean recognizes Levi’s’ unique relationship with the country and celebrates the new era. The only problem is that this run was limited to just 150 pairs and they’ve already sold out.

Today in Gear

From Everlane’s Japanese Stretch Selvedge Denim to Chimala’s generously style, these are the best jeans for most guys to wear every day. Read the Story

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

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