This Is a Big Step for American Watchmaking

Many have perhaps heard the term “chronometer” or seen the words “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” cluttering up a Rolex dial without fully understanding it. What does it mean, exactly?

“Chronometer” has been used in a range of different scenarios in horological history, which makes its definition understandably a little unclear. Not to be confused with “chronograph” (a watch with a stopwatch function), a chronometer is generally a watch that’s guaranteed to be very precise. Now, there’s a new kid on the block among organizations offering brands and watchmakers their chronometer testing and certification: the Horological Society of New York (HSNY). (The New York-based HSNY offers lectures, classes and other events on watchmaking.)

There are a number of outfits around the world with such services. The most widely recognized is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute or “COSC”) in Switzerland, which is where the majority of modern wristwatches bearing the chronometer designation have been certified. There are others, however, such as METAS and local organizations, and the HSNY now joins them.

Though the chronometer designation entails additional cost for watch companies, it offers a unique selling point and has long been associated with higher-end watches. As watch production has improved over the years, however, the criteria of the likes of COSC have become easier to meet. Those like the HSNY are offer alternatives with criteria that surpass the baseline requirements for chronometer certification as stipulated by the ISO 3159 standard.

A watch certified as a chronometer by the HSNY will go through 15 days of testing. Fully cased, it’ll be subjected to extreme environments meant to simulate actual wear in the world, including different positions and temperatures, and it’ll remain accurate within -4/+5 seconds per day — better than COSC’s well known standard of -4/+6. Rather than measuring the rate of a watch using a microphone and machinery that gives an instant readout, as is standard and common, the HSNY says its visual-only rate testing is more reliable.

While COSC only accepts watches qualifying for the Swiss Made designation, the HSNY will test watches from all over the world. Those that pass will get a physical certification with the test results as well as the right to display HSNY chronometer certification details on the likes of dials and movements. Debuting along with HSNY’s announcement is the first watch to feature the certification, a collaboration between Habring2 and Massena Lab.

This is an interesting new role for the over-150-year-old HSNY and for the American watchmaking scene. We can’t wait to see more excellent mechanical watches bearing a recognized mark of quality originating close to home.

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The Best Bronze Watches to Buy

Bronze has been around almost as long as horology. First used in weaponry and decorations around 4,000 BC — roughly when the first water clocks appeared — it’s mankind’s oldest alloy. Concocted of varying combinations of copper and tin, bronze can pack a Vickers hardness rating higher than that of wrought iron and stainless steel combined.

Bronze is also antimagnetic and resists corrosion — especially that caused by seawater. By generating a patina of copper oxide, bronze actually shields itself from further contamination. These characteristics, along with its ability to stand out in the seas of stainless steel wrist-wear, make it an ideal alloy for your wrist. Here are some of our favorite bronze watches.

Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze

baltic-watches.com

€750.00

French watchmaker Baltic is a favorite for its “neo-vintage” style, moderate sizing and strong value. All that’s present in the various steel iterations of their Aquascaphe dive watch, but a version in bronze adds yet another level of interest. The handsome and traditional vibes make it a great alternative for those who like the Panerai Bronzo look but can’t quite cop the price or size.

Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Miyota 9039 automatic
Water Resistance: 200m

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze

hamiltonwatch.com

$825.00

This Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical watch has all the basic but charming character we at Gear Patrol, frankly, can’t shut up about — but a bronze case makes this a significantly more premium and interesting version of that beloved beater. Bronze is a fitting material for such a fundamentally unfancy watch and will only become more so as it develops a patina over time for an even more rugged look. Like other current versions, the Khaki Field Mechanical features an updated manually wound movement with 80 hours of power reserve.

Diameter: 38mm
Movement: ETA 2801-2 manual
Water Resistance: 50m

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Bronze Ombré

christopherward.com

$1,150.00

The Ombré is a bronze interpretation of the British brand Christopher Ward’s popular C65 Trident dive watch. Like many of its steel counterparts, the Ombré features a 41mm-wide case, but this edition also boats a COSC chronometer-certified Sellita SW200 automatic movement. Its dial features an interesting “hand-distressed” texture that’s different on each example.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Sellita SW200 Automatic
Water Resistance: 150m

Yema Superman Heritage GMT Bronze

yema.com

$1,390.00

Green and bronze tend to be a winning combo, and French watchmaker Yema’s Superman dive watch wears it perfectly. The look is all the more striking with an otherwise almost monochromatic look thanks to a fully bronze case and bezel. It’s a capable diver powered by the brand’s own designed and assembled automatic GMT movement.

Diameter: 39mm or 41mm
Movement: YEMA3000 Automatic
Water Resistance: 300m

Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date

oris.ch

$2,100.00

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date offers a handsome style and uncomplicated design in a decidedly retro package from one of our favorite independent brands. A bronze case, however, lends it a different character and more warmth than previous versions. At 40mm, the Big Crown Pionter Date is ideally sized, and features the ubiquitous Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement visible through a display case back with Oris’s signature red rotor.

Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Sellita SW 200-1 Automatic
Water Resistance: 100m

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight Bronze

tudorwatch.com

$4,525.00

The Tudor Black Bay is nothing short of a modern icon offering incredible construction, an in-house movement and a shockingly reasonable price point. Done up in bronze, it’s more rugged than ever and yet remains refined and compelling as a daily wear. A gray dial that suggests a faded “tropical” effect that will continue to look good even as the bronze picks up its patina.

Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Tudor MT5400 Automatic
Water Resistance: 200m

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze

bellross.com

$3,990.00

Matching a bronze case with a blue dial and bezel, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver has a unique look and a deliberate feel. That combination delivers a visual punch, backed up by the brand’s typically solid construction, attention to detail and signature square case, here in the form of a dive watch. Housing a sturdy Sellita SW300 automatic engine to power the whole handsome package, it’s also available in other colors that each pairs interestingly with bronze.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Sellita SW300 Automatic
Water Resistance: 300m

Panerai Submersible Bronzo PAM00968

panerai.com

$17,000.00

Panerai’s first experiment with bronze was an instant success. While following in the footsteps of the PAM00382 is no easy feat, the brand’s proven up to the task with an expanding range of Bronzos. The soft warmth of the PAM00968’s hulking 47mm case plays immeasurably well against the chocolate color of its dial and bezel. Water-resistant to 300m, it’s powered by Panerai’s in-house P.9010 calibre carrying a 3-day power reserve. Bellissimo.

Diameter: 47mm
Movement: Panerai P.9010 Automatic
Water Resistance: 300m

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Spitfire

iwc.com

$17,100.00

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch has been the canvas for a range of complications and variations, and this particular edition isn’t the first time it’s been manufactured in bronze. A “Big Pilot’s Watch” indeed, its case measures 46.2mm wide and features an outsized onion crown and even a digital “Big Date” — each digit changes separately, allowing for a more prominent display. Its in-house movement is partially visible through the case back, as is an eight-day power-reserve indicator.

Diameter: 46.2mm
Movement: IWC 59235 Manual
Water Resistance: 60m

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