Without question, Universal Genève is the most lauded of the “lost” vintage watch brands that either closed up shop or became shallow husks of themselves following the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and ’80s.
Of course, the good news is that Universal Genève is currently on the comeback trail, having been purchased by Breitling at the end of 2023. Though the reborn watchmaker doesn’t plan on launching any new models until next year, the brand has given us a couple of appetizers honoring its past to tide us over.
Last year, the newly revived UG unveiled the Polerouter SAS Tribute, a largely faithful reproduction of the brand’s most iconic vintage watch with a precious metal case and powered by a rebuilt vintage movement. The brand produced just three examples of the Polerouter redux, each a pièce unique, and now UG is implementing the same strategy to bring back another one of its icons.
A style icon
Among collectors, there is perhaps no out-of-production vintage chronograph more beloved than “The Nina.”
That’s the nickname given to the white-dialed version of Universal Genève’s Compax, a decidedly sporty and good-looking chronograph from the 1960s that looks a bit like a cross between a Speedmaster and Daytona with its twisted lugs, pump pushers, thin external tachymeter bezel and panda dial, but was more compact than either at just 36mm.