For all shoes that aren’t standard moccasins, a leather midsole is sewn to the bottom of the vamp, and the outsole is then stitched to the midsole. The shoe is unlined, but Rancourt inserts a leather insole to cover the stitching.
This method eliminates the vulnerability of stitching at the midsole level, resulting in a more water-resistant shoe. The upper also molds to the owner’s foot like a glove, creating a perfect fit over time.
Another technique Rancourt utilizes to achieve a better fit is punching the holes for the moc stitching by hand as the toe box is sewn. Most brands machine-punch the holes as the leather panels are cut.
America’s leather
Bison leather is tougher per density than cow leather, allowing Rancourt to use a more supple leather to achieve the quality it maintains. This will result in a smoother feel out of the box and a quicker break-in period.
