High Horology Underwater

Compared to the robust, sports-watch-oriented movements produced by Rolex and Omega, the calibres that power Glashütte Original watches are a different animal. They’re not necessarily better or worse, just different.

They’re more traditional, more beautiful, and more associated with haute horology dress watches than divers. The SeaQ’s Cal. 36-13 movement is a jaw-dropper with its Glashütte three-quarter plate decorated with stripes, its snailed gears, its blued screws and the 21-carat gold logo on its skeletonized rotor.

When you look at this movement — which is a real treat that’s further amplified by the use of the most domed sapphire caseback I’ve ever seen — you’d never guess it was in a 300m-capable dive watch. But make no mistake, this movement is plenty suited for its task with an amagmentic silicon balance spring and a power reserve of 100 hours.

the automatic movement of a glashutte original dive watch seen through a display caseback
Yes, you can get this obscenely elegant movement in your rugged dive watch.
Photo by Johnny Brayson for Gear Patrol

My One Complaint

My loaner was on a textile strap, which was … fine. It’s a little rough and not really worth discussing in detail, and without having seen the available bracelet, I can’t really judge that aspect of the watch.

My one big complaint about the SeaQ, though, is its size. At 43.2mm in diameter and 15.65mm thick, it’s simply too big. The thickness is pretty manageable, as a lot of that comes from the massively domed sapphire crystals on the front and back of the watch — both of which I enjoyed immensely for the visual interest they provide — but the case diameter is a problem.