It is open knowledge that the famous “Swiss Made” slogan doesn’t actually mean 100% made-in-Switzerland, and that the vast majority of watches with the designation also use non-Swiss parts to save on costs. Nevertheless, the label has a lot of power due to the country’s earned reputation for fastidious quality and attention to detail, so more Swiss components and production naturally add to perceived value. Some young, independent brands like Ultramarine are striving to offer as totally Swiss-made watches as possible for relatively affordable prices, such as the Morse 9141N GMT.
Ultramarine goes so far as to name the watch’s total cost to produce and where in Switzerland each component is produced: cases from Neuchâtel, dials from La Chaux-de-fonds, hands from Le Locle… the brand claims everything from the sapphire crystal to the screws is Swiss. At the very least, such transparency is rare and appreciated. Rather than the common movement options from ETA and Sellita, Ultramarine uses the Eterna 3914A GMT movement which offers automatic winding and a generous 65-hour power reserve. It also offers an independently adjustable 24-hour hand in the 6 o’clock sub-dial, which is an appreciated detail. (Eterna admittedly purchases hairsprings and mainsprings from an outside supplier.)
This movement also results in an interesting dial layout, with a sub-dial for running seconds at 9 o’clock and date window at 3 o’clock. In the end, the asymmetric dial layout may be polarizing, but with a 40mm-wide, 12mm-thick case that’s water-resistant to 100m, the Ultramarine Morse 9141N GMT promises to be wearable and robust. Blue and black dial options are available in limited editions of 300 for $1,836.