All posts in “Watches”

Save Up to 30% off Professional Rolex Models on eBay

It’s time to buy your dream adventure watch: a Rolex that fits in both the boardroom and the jungle. It can be difficult to know where to start, but thankfully eBay makes the process not only approachable, but affordable. The retailer has sales of up to 30 percent on Submariners, Milgausses and Explorers, each of which have adorned the wrists of the most prominent explorers this world has ever seen. And while you may never summit K2, it’s easy to find a Rolex that could with eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee. Need we say more?

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One of the Year’s Coolest Timex Watches Is Back in Stock

The Q Timex, Timex’s 1970s-inspired quartz diver, is now available in several different colors and styles. But if you were searching for something a bit more monochromatic — or something with more of a definitive (non-Rolex inspired) vintage inspiration — you should check out the new Todd Snyder X Timex Q Bracelet Watch.

If you’ve ever done a deep dive into the depths of eBay late one night, looking at vintage watches, you’ve no doubt come across similar-looking Timex models: baton hands, red-tipped seconds hand, stick markers, folded-link steel bracelet, etc. All of those features are present here and more: you get a domed acrylic crystal, a rotating, dive-style bezel, a reliable quartz movement with day-date display, a handsome black dial, lumed hands and a battery hatch for easy swapping. The watch is also sized perfectly at 38mm and is water-resistant to 50m.

It’s strange to see the old folded-link style employed on a modern bracelet (in place of solid links), and we have to say, we love it — there’s something immensely satisfying about the jangle and feeling of one of these bracelets once they’ve been truly worn in. For $179, there’s little to argue with here. Vintage aesthetics, modern tech, a great look — it’s all present in this new version of the Q.

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The 10 Best Vintage Watches Under $1,000, According to Experts

With demand for vintage timepieces steadily on the rise, it might be tempting go out and spend thousands on a classic Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster. While they’re great timepieces, there’s something to be said about dipping your toes into vintage collecting with something a bit more … accessible.

Fortunately, the vintage marketplace is teeming with undervalued timepieces, from big names and forgotten brands alike. The problem is picking something from that expansive lot. Here, three vintage watch specialists — Eric Wind of Wind Vintage, Nick Pardo, previously of Analog/Shift and Hamilton Powell of Crown & Caliber — opine on the best timepieces that can be realistically acquired for less than a grand.

Vulcain Cricket


Both Wind and Powell recommend Vulcain Crickets. Pioneers of the mechanical alarm complication, they were relatively ubiquitous — multiple U.S. presidents even wore them. “They were extremely popular when they were introduced as people loved having an alarm they could carry with them. It was sort of the iPhone of its day in terms of demand and usefulness,” Wind says.

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Omega Seamaster


Wind, Pardo and Powell all agree that vintage three-hand Omegas — especially the early Seamasters — are incredibly undervalued and, as such, serve as gateways into vintage collecting. “They offer handsome, timeless designs, high-grade in-house movements and a recognizable name at an affordable price point,” says Pardo, while Wind notes that, “I have seen many of people that started with Seamasters quickly get the vintage watch bug.” All three note that they’re especially great as dress watches, with their charismatic designs and slim cases sliding easily under a shirt cuff. “They’re smart, sophisticated and very Don Draper-esque,” Powell says.

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Bulovas


Throughout the ’60s and ’70s, Bulova made loads of unique watches that are picking up steam within the collecting community because they can be acquired on the cheap. Pardo personally recommends the 666 Diver, which came in a smattering of different configurations. According to him, “this is a great line of dive watches from the 60s and early 70s that range in size from slim 35mm time-only models to larger Valjoux powered chronographs. And who doesn’t love the ‘Devil Diver’ nickname?” Wind’s personal preference is for the more obscure Spinnaker, emblematic of some of the brand’s bolder design directions: “Bulova has made a number of daring and interesting designs over the years … the Spinnaker is an automatic watch that came in some very funky colors and with a strap painted to match the dial. It’s a really cool and well-made watch,” he says.

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Seiko Sports Watches


Pardo recommended vintage Seiko sport watches for our other list of great vintage watches, but Pardo says, “I can’t not recommend Seiko at this price point.” He’s right, few watches back as much history, innovation and design at their low, low price. “They’re funky, colorful, diverse, have bulletproof movements and are horologically significant,” he says. Pardo specifically likes the 6139 “Pogue,” 6309 “Turtle,” 6138 “John Player Special” and “Bellmatic Alarm.” Though recommends buying through a trusted dealer rather than eBay, as the latter is rife with frankenwatches.

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US Military GI Watches


While many companies are making vintage reissues of old general issue military watches, Pardo says you can get the real deal — specifically old Hamilton and Benrus watches — for just a few hundred bucks. “They’re simple, clean, have legible dials, reliable ETA-based movements with hacking, and a history of being used by American servicemen for decades,” he says. “These hold a special place in my heart as one was my first vintage piece.” Pardo also notes that the Benrus 3061, a civilian variant made popular by Steve McQueen, who wore it in Bulitt, is harder to find but still realistically attainable for under $1,000.

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Tissots


Today, Tissot is known for making some solid-value mechanical watches, but the brand’s commitment to value for money extends to its vintage pieces, too. Models like the Seastar divers, dressy Angtimagnetique and even the Navigator chronograph can be found well under $1,000. However, Powell likes funkier, more colorful models from the brand’s past. “I love the colors on some of these old vintage Tissots — lots of blues and orange,” he says. “They’re totally undervalued in my opinion.”

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Zodiac Sea Wolf


Despite debuting alongside the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms in 1953, the Zodiac Sea-Wolf doesn’t get quite as much credit it deserves for being one of the earliest dedicated dive watches ever made. As such, they’re relative bargains on the vintage market, especially considering its horological pedigree. “It’s such a cool model,” says Pardo. “It has a slim 35mm case, great looks and is easy to obtain under $1,000.”

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Generic Skin Divers


Following the growing success of dedicated dive watches like the Zodiac, many watchmakers built “skin divers,” generic lightweight divers that were dressier and had shallower depth ratings. All of them looked remarkably similar. “Any number of who-knows brands made these funky dive watches with a chunky stainless steel straight lug 37mm contract case and usually an ETA movement,” Pardo says. “They’re lots of fun, and usually well under $1,000.”

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Mechanical Timexes


“Most people have come to connote Timex with a crappy quartz watch but there are some really cool old mechanical Timex watches out there,” Powell says. While Timex has been producing primarily quartz watches for the last few decades, it made tons of mechanical pieces during the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, including the iconic Marlin dress watch (recently reissued) and the sportier Sprite. Given their ubiquity, most can be found easily for under $100 making them great gateways into vintage collecting.

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Time-Only Heuers


While they’re hard to find, Heuer did make some time-only watches — many of them automatic — back in the 1950s. Since they’re not as well known, they can be found relatively cheaply, Wind says. “Most people overlook them since they are focused on vintage Heuer chronographs, but I really think their time-only watches were beautiful,” he says.

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A Word to the Wise Before Posting Your Watch Pictures Online

Welcome to Further Details, a recurring column where we investigate what purpose an oft-overlooked product element actually serves. This week: why people hide their watches’ serial numbers.

Every 2020 No-Date Rolex Submariner in Oystersteel will have the same reference number: 124060. Only the one on my wrist right now (if I were so lucky), however, has the serial number [REDACTED].

Wait, seriously? Why does that have to be redacted?

Many have wondered why you so often see pre-owned watch pictures online (if that’s how you spend your time) that hide the serial numbers. There must be a good reason, one would assume, but it’s not quite obvious what that is. Is this something you need to be careful about? Here’s what you need to know.

What Are Watch Serial Numbers Used For?

There’s usually the chance to register a watch when you buy it, and when you do so it’s identified by its unique serial number. This records information that can later be used to confirm authenticity, ownership and other details that may be useful in repairing or reselling it. (Here’s how to find your watch’s serial number.)

When buying a vintage watch, checking the serial number is part of your due diligence and can help you make sure everything else about the watch looks legit. You can also make sure a pre-owned watch hasn’t been reported stolen by checking on thewatchregister.com and mystolenwatch.com.

Why Hiding a Serial Number Is Considered a Best Practice

Perhaps many people hide serial numbers in their pictures online because they see others doing so and feel it’s better to be safe — even if they don’t know exactly why. By hiding the serial number, the actual owner of a watch is mostly avoiding potential inconvenience rather than material harm.

A scammer or counterfeiter can use a valid serial number to sell illegitimate products. For example, a scammer might use someone else’s pictures in selling a watch he doesn’t own, and a valid serial number would help it look more legit.

When that watch is then never delivered and reported stolen (on police reports, company documentation, insurance claims, as well as on community forums), the owner might find out later that he has to prove legitimate ownership — it might even be confiscated when he sends it in for servicing. This is a mere inconvenience if you have the papers to prove ownership, but if not it could be a bigger hassle. This is primarily a concern with higher-end watches.

So Hide Them!

While keeping your serial number private is mostly about averting potential inconveniences, it avoids aiding fraudsters and should be considered a “best practice.”

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One of Our Favorite Vintage-Style Dive Watches Got a Big Upgrade

One of our favorite microbrand watchmakers is the French company Baltic, which offers affordable, retro-styled watches like the Aquascaphe. From models equipped with bronze cases to 12-hour steel bezels, it’s come in a few versions so far, but all were mostly straight-ahead automatic dive watches. The newest version, however, represents a major expansion of the line with a GMT movement and 24-hour, bicolor bezels.

The 12-hour bezel version offered a useful but rudimentary way to track another time zone, but the GMT does so much more precisely with a dedicated mechanical complication. A fourth hand tracks the time in a 24-hour format and can be set independently of the main hour hand. The bezel can then be turned in either direction for more timezone tracking options.

aquascaphe gmt

Baltic

The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT comes in three variations: each has a bezel that’s divided by color to represent nighttime hours in dark blue and daytime hours with orange, gray or green (and dial highlights to match for each version). Both the bezel and dial are topped with sapphire crystal. Though not meant for serious diving, these are still reasonably capable of getting wet with a water-resistance of 100m, and they’re powered by the Swiss automatic Soprod C125 movement.

On a Tropic rubber strap, the price is about $1,105, or you can get the watch on a cool beads-of-rice bracelet for around $1,200 (we recommend the bracelet). Each version is produced in an initial run of 600 numbered pieces, and they’re available now directly from Baltic.

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This Is the Affordable Watch To Gift This Holiday Season

For the fifth time, watch website and retailer Hodinkee has partnered with Swatch on a fun, colorful creation that’s both affordable and watch-snob-friendly. With the celebrated Sistem51 model as its base, Hodinkee has taken inspiration from a Swatch model from 1990 and given it a fresh redesign. The result is a throwback to this decade and the Swatch watches many watch collectors remember fondly.

The Sistem51 got the watch world’s attention as the first mechanical watch produced with a completely automated process. Further, it contains only 51 parts, most of which are plastic, and the resulting watches usually cost under $200 and boast a Swiss Made designation. True to Swatch form, they’re also mixed and matched endlessly with playful design iterations.

The 42mm plastic case of the Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1990, as it’s called, has a deep green hue and is matched to a navy blue dial. (Look closer, and you’ll notice that the markings on the dial’s periphery are pink.) Most notable, however, is the “California dial,” meaning that half the numerals are Roman and the other half are Arabic for a distinctive look.

Available now from the Hodinkee Shop on a matching green leather strap, the Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1990 costs $170. Have someone who could use a watch? This is the gift to give them.

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Joe Biden Has Surprisingly Good Taste in Watches

They say you can tell a lot about a person from their watch. What about United States presidents?

Perhaps unsurprisingly, wristwatches are easy to politicize. Presidents who surely can afford and possibly have a taste for more expensive watches can’t appear too aloof from their electorate and often need to wear very humble watches. Bill Clinton’s famous Timex Ironman, for instance, has seen less wrist time since his retirement in favor of an impressive collection of Panerais to A. Lange & Söhne watches.

The case of president-elect Joe Biden is a curious one. At first glance, his fondness for Seiko watches supports the Average-Joe persona he projects. But a closer look reveals the president-elect has a quiet penchant for the finer things as well.

Seiko Alarm Chronograph

duke v georgetown

Mitchell LaytonGetty Images

For his victory speech in Wilmington, DE, on November 7, 2020, Biden wore the simple Seiko chronograph he’d also been seen with on the campaign trail. The two-tone finish is aesthetic only (a coating over steel): this is a practical, inexpensive quartz watch, but choosing Seiko hints at his watch awareness — a harmless dog whistle for watch enthusiasts, if you will. He appears to have several such Seiko watches as well as more expensive Swiss ones in his arsenal.

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Vulcain Cricket

president obama and vice president biden walk to lunch as government shutdown continues

PoolGetty Images

It’s natural for any vice president to consider running for the top office, and Biden had done so before running alongside Barack Obama. So it’s perhaps unsurprising that he’d been spotted with the Vulcain Cricket. Otherwise known as the President’s Watch, Vulcain has made a tradition of gifting a Cricket presidents since Harry Truman in 1953. It features a mechanical alarm that earlier presidents especially found useful. Since he’s already got one, it’ll be interesting to see if Vulcain sends him another.

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Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

day 7 invictus games toronto 2017

Samir HusseinGetty Images

Seen in an interview with the magazine In Style, Biden variously sported jeans, a sweatshirt, a denim shirt, a leather jacket, his trademark aviator sunglasses and an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. This seems to show Joe’s casual side and personal taste: it’s down-to-earth workwear but communicates that he values quality and style. The Speedmaster, of course, appropriately has a US government connection with its use by NASA. As one of the best values in modern watches, it reflects on Biden as serious but not extravagant.

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Omega Seamaster 300m Diver

getty

Getty

Biden is clearly a Seiko man but also an Omega fan. He’s been spotted with a Seamaster 300m Diver, pairing a dive watch to a suit, 007-style. Though irreproachably tasteful, the watch doesn’t seem like an overly calculated wardrobe choice (though it’s not an inexpensive watch) and is more representative of his own personality — and watch collection.

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Apple Watch

presidential candidates attend polk county democrats' steak fry in des moines

Joshua LottGetty Images

Apple products might be polarizing, but Biden wearing an Apple Watch as he’s occasionally done seems practical. It’s of less interest to watch collectors and enthusiasts than the watches above, but will be familiar and approachable to voters. However, the Secret Service could conceivably not allow the president to wear such technology for security reasons, and Joe will surely be happy to return to his Seikos and Omegas.

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This New Watch from TAG Heuer Is as Smart as It Looks

In the age of the smartwatch, an analog timepiece can look a whole lot smarter than its high-tech counterpart. Nonetheless, it’s hard to argue with the convenience and functionality of a watch that has as much computing power as a laptop. As much as we’d like to have our cake and eat it too, life is about trade-offs and compromises — at least until it isn’t. The new TAG Heuer Connected packs all the features and functionality you’ve come to expect from a top-of-the-line smartwatch while maintaining the class and elegance of a Swiss chronograph-inspired timepiece. Combining the brand’s timeless aesthetic with a state-of-the-art, custom-designed digital experience, the new TAG Heuer Connected is the watch to look out for this holiday season. Find out more about what makes it tick below.


tag heuer connected

TAG Heuer


1.

Tapping Through Time: At first glance, the TAG Heuer Connected looks just like one of the brand’s legendary chronographs from decades ago. The 45mm steel or titanium case recalls the design, materials and finishes of more than a century of watchmaking, that is, until you tap the OLED display to bring up your realtime health and fitness data.

2.

Best Face Forward: The TAG Heuer Connected features the brand’s Synopsis watch face — a customizable multi-feature display that you can set up to highlight your most important data in one read. Choose up to six complications to wear on your wrist at your convenience, with data such as upcoming calendar events, the day’s weather forecast or your recent health data never more than a quick glance away. And if all that data becomes too much of a distraction, just tap once to bring up the iconic TAG Heuer Carrera watch face.

3.

Your Watch, Your Way: By seamlessly blending the popular connected services offered by Google’s Wear OS with the TAG Heuer Sports app, as well as a little help from the built-in GPS and heart rate monitor, the TAG Heuer Connected is compatible with a whole range of detailed health and fitness tracking programs. Whether you’re a golfer, runner, cyclist, weightlifter or fitness fanatic of any kind, the TAG Heuer mobile companion app makes it so much easier to gain useful insight into the wearer’s wellness and achievements.


Price: $2,350

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This Is the Affordable Watch for the Design-Obsessed

Paulin Neo, ~$519

To quote the great Mike Meyers: “If it ain’t Scottish, it’s CRAP!”

Alright, it might not necessarily crap if it’s not Scottish. But one thing’s for certain: the Scots have been on a horological roll these past few years, churning out awesome watches, one after the other. The latest timepiece to joins these ranks comes from a small, Glasgow-based brand founded by three sisters called Paulin.

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 38mm
Case Depth: 11.6mm
Water Resistance: 50m
Movement: Seiko NH35A automatic
Price: 396 GBP (~$519)

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Paulin has been manufacturing watches for a few years now, but with the Neo, it feels like the firm has truly found it voice. A design-focused timepiece, the 38mm Neo features an automatic movement from Seiko, putting it squarely in cross-hairs of watch enthusiasts as well as those whose chief concern is a fun dial design. Let’s check out the Neo C, its blue and pink form. (The other two available dials are pictured below.)

paulin neo

Paulin

paulin neo

Paulin

Notable

It’s tough to find the sweet spot between attractive, modern design and things that are important to watch enthusiasts, such as mechanical movements, appropriate case sizing, and certain niche features, such as lug holes. Often, when you find a watch with a great modern dial design, it’s either quartz-powered, or it’s relatively high end (though watches from certain German brands, such as Nomos and Junghans, are notable exceptions). The Neo is an outlier, and it’s priced like a “microbrand” watch, at roughly $519.

paulin neo inline 1

Oren Hartov

Who It’s For

Previously, one of Paulin’s watches (the Geo Mini) was stocked by the MoMA Design Store in NYC, which is appropriate — many of the company’s wares contain no small hint of Bauhaus or other modernist design. I could easily see a casual fan of design — but not necessarily a “watch guy” or “watch gal” — falling hard for the Neo. At roughly $500, it would make a great gift for such a person.

On the other hand, a serious watch nerd — and especially one who gravitates toward “microbrands” and their wares — would no doubt love the Neo, especially at its attractive price. The dial of the blue and pink model, with its playful colors and font, might not be “masculine” enough for the private equity crowd, but those whose tastes extend to all different sorts of watches could easily find a Neo that excites them. (All the more so because it’s available in a black and white variant, the Neo A.)

paul neo case back

Paulin

Alternatives

Jungans’ Max Bill line immediately comes to mind, especially their less expensive handwound variants in 34mm. Braun’s AW10 EVO is another design-focused watch for under $500, though it’s powered by a quartz movement. If you’re willing to spend a bit more, a Nomos Club gives you a similar feel to the Neo, albeit with a serious movement upgrade the in the form of the brand’s in-house, handwound Alpha caliber.

neo paulin inline 2

Oren Hartov

Review

I was sent a Neo C (blue with pink indices) for review. The watch showed up in handsome packaging that clearly indicated thoughtfulness and an eye towards sustainability: a stamped cardboard box with inner cork liner and an outer sleeve with time-setting and care directions printed on the back. I’ll say right away that “my” particular watch came on a gunmetal black mesh bracelet, which I immediately removed — I hate these types of bracelets and knew the watch would work much better for me on a perlon from Crown & Buckle. (Rest assured that the watch is available with many, many different strap or bracelet options.)

I’m excited to discuss the watch’s dial, but first, the case: it’s a perfect (IMHO) 38mm, crafted from stainless steel, and nicely brushed. It’s got a push-pull crown that ensures 50m of water resistance (this ain’t a dive watch, after all), as well as a transparent case back. The NH35 is nothing to look at, and personally, I’d rather see a solid case back on this watch…but that’s just me. Half the audience for such a watch is probably going to be downright fascinated looking at the movement, so for that reason, this may have been the optimal move, considering the potential target market. (Also, you “watch people” out there will be thrilled to know that this baby has lug holes — huzzah!)

paulin neo

Paulin

Ok, the dial: So dope. Paulin teamed up with anOrdain on this watch (one of the Paulin sisters and anOrdain founder Lewis Heath are, don’t you know, a married couple!), which entailed several stages: first, Paulin developed a special typeface called “Wim,” designed by their in-house typographer. Then, the dials are laser-cut from aluminum, adonised, and sent to artist Helen Swan, who hand-dyes them in her Glasgow studio. Finally, the dials are sent to anOrdain’s studio for pad-printing.

The results are pretty special: the C’s dial is a gorgeous sky blue in which the aluminum’s vertical “grains” are visible. Pad-printed on this surface are orange line-shaped markers at each hour and pink hour indices in the Wim typeface. Bold and unique, the numbers work together with the other dial elements for a fun, whimsical look. When combined with a red seconds hand (with no counterbalance — it simply extends from the center of the dial), a short, black rectangular hour hand and a skeletonized, rectangular steel hour hand, the results are highly legible. The NH35’s date disc is rendered here in black, with the dates contrasting in white (this is the case on all three colorways).

Notably, because of the NH35’s relatively slow beat rate of 21,600 vph, the seconds hand makes its way around the dial with leisure, similarly to that of a vintage watch. Combine this with a domed acrylic crystal and the case’s lug holes and smaller size, and you almost feel like you’re wearing a vintage piece. It’s a feeling I quite enjoy, though again, I would’ve ditched the transparent case back. (One nice thing about the NH35, is that because it’s so common, virtually any watchmaker should be able to service it. Though the Neo does come with a two-year warranty.)

The “B” variant of the Neo comes in a striking cream color, while the A is neutral black and white. I love the look of these two colorways — though I’ve only seen them in pictures — but for my money, I would have to choose the C variant, which seems most fun to me. Paired with an easy-wearing strap such as a perlon, you almost forget you’re wearing a watch at all.

Verdict

The Neo is too cool. While it’s by no means a perfect watch (which watch is?), the design, price, look and feel are perfect for the design-obsessed, the horologically-obsessed, or simply anyone who appreciates a fun, good-looking accessory. I’d love to see a future option without the transparent case back, or maybe on a cool beads-of-rice bracelet instead of the mesh option. But ultimately, this is the type of watch that’s fun no matter how you wear it.

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How to Turn Your Watch Into a Compass

In 1942, Waldemar Semenov and the crew of the Alcoa Guide, an unarmed merchant ship positioned about 300 miles off the coast of North Carolina, found themselves in a tight spot. A German U-boat had surfaced and opened fire, using the ship as “target practice,” according to Semenov. With the ship aflame and on the verge of sinking, Semenov and some of his crew managed to get to the lifeboats. Using a small compass, the survivors sailed west by northwest for three days until they were rescued by an American destroyer ship. Semenov’s compass is now on display in the National Museum of American History.

Even if you never find yourself in escaping enemy fire on the high seas, Semenov’s story is a testament to the importance of the compass. While modern GPS units have made navigating the wilderness easier, many experts recommend the tried-and-true method of a compass and map for navigating the backcountry, or, at the very least, they suggest it as a backup to an electronic navigation system.

But what if you find yourself in an extremely unlucky situation where your compass becomes lost or broken and rescuers won’t know where to find you? There’s the old moss trick, of course. But that’s fairly unreliable. Turns out that a traditional, analog watch outdoors can double as a compass. Using one as such is an old trick that’s even taught in the U.S. Army Ranger Handbook. In fact, some watches even feature a compass bezel that makes the process easier, though any analog watch with a 12-hour scale will work. It isn’t perfect, but it could still mean the difference between life and death. That counts for something.

If you’re in the Northern Hemisphere, find a nearby area with a clear view of the sun. Take off your watch and hold it horizontal in your hand so the twelve o’clock marker is facing left, then point your hour hand in the direction of the sun — true south should be located approximately between the hour hand and the twelve o’clock marker. Before noon, you’ll need to measure clockwise from the hour hand; in the afternoon, measure counterclockwise from the hour hand. So, for example, if it’s four o’clock in the afternoon, point the hour hand at the sun, and south should be located at the two o’clock marker. If it’s noon, the hour hand will be pointing south.

If you’re in the Southern Hemisphere, the method is essentially inverted. You’ll find a spot with a clear view of the sun, take off your watch and hold it horizontally, but you’ll point the twelve o’clock marker towards the sun. North should then be at the midpoint on the watch between the twelve o’clock marker and your hour hand.

For more accuracy, the U.S. Army Ranger’s handbook recommends placing a small stick in the ground, which will cast a more definite shadow. The process is otherwise essentially the same, but instead of pointing the hour hand or twelve o’clock marker towards the sun, you’ll point it towards and along the stick’s shadow. This process takes slightly longer but if time is on your side, it might be worth it.

Keep in mind that this method only works during the daytime when the sun is visible. It also will only work in the temperate zone, as the closer you get to the equator, the harder it is to discern the movement of the sun. Also be mindful of daylight savings time. If you’re currently practicing it (i.e. during the summer months), either set the hour hand back one hour or use the midway point between one o’clock and the hour hand instead.

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This Is the Most Important Chronograph Watch You’ve Never Heard Of

Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Breitling No. 100 Chronographe-Compteur.

The undeniably captivating look of a chronograph watch (a wrist-worn stopwatch) stems from its functionality: its busy face is crammed with dials and scales, and two buttons protruding from the case side tell you that this is basically a steampunk computer. Those features make chronographs sporty, technical and immediately recognizable, and they’re taken for granted today — but that wasn’t always the case.

The modern chronograph was born in 1934 when Breitling introduced the first example to feature two case side pushers( buttons), which separated the stop/start function from the reset. This may not sound like a big deal, but like the simple 3 o’clock date window that Rolex introduced in 1945, modern watches would be almost unimaginable without it.

Even today, there are different kinds of chronograph watches with different takes on integrating the stopwatch function — and aesthetic interpretations are legion. But the overwhelmingly common and archetypal form features two or three subdials and two pushers flanking the crown on the right side of the case — and this was Breitling’s contribution.

1933 breitling chronograph

Breitling

As many watch wearers know, to operate a standard modern chronograph you press the 2 o’clock pusher to start it and the seconds hand begins to move. After a full 60-second cycle, you’ll see the minutes begin to rack up in one of the subdials, often followed by hours in another. You stop the chronograph with the same 2 o’clock pusher, and reset it to zero with the 4 o’clock pusher. All the while, the main time display is unaffected.

Breitling introduced its two-pusher chrono at a time when most only used a single pusher integrated into the crown that performed all three functions: start, stop and reset. (Nowadays we call that kind of chronograph a monopusher.) However, Breitling had been working on improving this system for decades with incremental technological innovations.

1933 breitling chronograph

Timeline.Watch

1933 breitling chronograph

Timeline.Watch

In 1915, the company introduced one of the first wristwatches that separated the pusher from the crown, placing it at 2 o’clock. Then, in 1927, the brand released a pocket watch thay separated the start/stop function (placing it at 2 o’clock) from the reset function (integrated into the crown at 3 o’clock) — in retrospect, one can see the modern chronograph beginning to take shape.

But why was it such a big deal to simply separate the functions? Some might even argue that the resulting look is less clean and elegant. Besides being visually balanced (and cool-looking), separating the reset function adds the ability to pause the chronograph and restart it without resetting it. Watchmakers and consumers have found this to be the preferred system ever since.

1933 breitling chronograph
A 1915 Breitling chronograph, one of the first such wristwatches with a separate pusher above the crown.

Breitling

Despite its status as the first “modern chronograph,” the No. 100 has an antiquated look from a 21st-century perspective — like it’s made to accompany a sextant and a brass telescope for navigating your airship. It features both a telemeter on the dial’s periphery for measuring distance and a tachymeter as a spiral shape in the dial’s center for measuring speed. An early Breitling ad says it was intended for “industry” or sports like soccer.

Along with this important but often overlooked contribution to watchmaking, Breitling also made cockpit instruments for airplanes, and later, chronograph watches especially for pilots. Breitling today is known for its chronographs and pilot’s watches in particular, but the company’s role in developing the modern chronograph gives that reputation a lot more credence.

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If You’re a Watch Collector, You Need a Tool Like This

A quirk of collecting vintage (or new, for that matter) mechanical watches is that we enthusiasts and collectors are constantly worried about their accuracy — when we buy them, when we wear them, and when we’re about to sell them. This process is important for sussing out whether a watch is functioning accurately or whether it needs service. If you can check a particularly watch before purchasing it, you can potentially save yourself the hassle of an immediate, expensive trip to the watchmaker.

Checking accuracy via a watch movement’s amplitude is possible at home via a desktop system like a Timegrapher, but these aren’t exactly portable, nor do they look particularly slick on a desk.

accuracy 2

OneOf

A new company called OneOf is hoping to change this. Their Accuracy2 is a portable watch measurement tool that consists of a sensor pad, a USB cable, and an adaptor for your phone or iPad — when used in conjunction with a proprietary app, you can use it to measure your watch’s accuracy. The sensor weighs just 20g, and you can throw it in a bag and conceivably take it on the go. At $320, it’s less expensive than something like a Timegrapher, and much easier to move.

OneOf also has two other systems in its lineup: the Accuracy Boutique Edition, which includes a demagnetizer ($1,270) and the Accuracy Pro ($3,330), a serious tool geared toward watchmakers that includes multi-position sensing. For more info, check out OneOf’s website below.

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Fashion Brands Can Make Great Watches, Too

What’s the difference between a “fashion watch” and a “real watch?” Ask a hardcore enthusiast or collector and you’re sure to get a snappy answer.

Watchnerd lingo and culture often derogatorily dubbs watches made made as mere fashion accessories “fashion watches.” (The term also generally refers to those made without respect for horological history and tradition by brands coming from other sectors.) But just because a company is good at designing other products doesn’t make its watches automatically dismissible, does it?

Most watches that enthusiasts and collectors are interested in come from brands that exclusively (or at least primarily) make watches and have done so historically. On the other hand, anyone can make a fashion watch if it “looks good” from a distance. Collectors will complain, however, that they too often feature obliviously mismatched design elements or simply mimic traditional designs using mass production and low cost.

So, fashion watches get bad rap. There are examples, however, of brands originating in other sectors such as jewelry (Cartier, Bulgari, Chopard, etc.) or even pen makers (Montblanc, etc.) that are uncontrovertibly established members of the watch industry and community. So what about watches by fashion labels? Are they necessarily “fashion watches” in the pejorative sense?

Brands that put in the effort to understand what it takes to make a “real watch,” even if they come from the fashion world, can produce something worthy of enthusiasts’ attention. Further, they bring an outside perspective and fresh ideas that many watch nerds would agree is needed in the industry — and the four examples below prove it.

Louis Vuitton

4 fashion brand watches

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s LVMH corporate siblings include watch brands like Zenith, TAG Heuer, Bulgari and Hublot. The brand began making its own watches in 2002 with its distinctive, drum-shaped Tambour, and later even acquired production facilities in Geneva called La Fabrique du Temps. So this is the same historic brand you know for its expensive handbags or belts, but it’s also invested in making some of the most distinctive and interesting watches.

Watch snobs shouldn’t forget watches like the Louis Vuitton Escale World Time with its utterly unique and captivating, hand-painted dial. It’s a classic and a perfect example of what fresh perspectives can bring to the table. The Escale and Tambour have become larger collections that often incorporate interesting and highly complicated features (e.g., the incredible Spin Time). Yes, some of the brand’s watches feature giant “LV” logos and are aimed at Louis Vuitton brand fans, but there’s plenty for watch fans as well.

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Hermes

4 fashion brand watches

Hermes

Yes, there’s an Apple Watch Hermes; no, that’s not what we’re talking about. Hermes has several watch collections, but the Slim (or Slim d’Hermes) is the flagship. Not only is it slender (8.2mm thick) and and conservative-looking (39.5mm wide), but its whimsical numerals make it more interesting that many other dress watches. This little detail is what makes it stand out visually and keeps it true to its brand, but this is otherwise pretty classical watchmaking.

The Slim uses a thin automatic movement with a micro rotor made by the manufacturer Vaucher, in which Hermes owns a 25% stake. This is the same factory that provides extremely high-end movements to brands like Parmigiani and Richard Mille, but the Slim d’Hermes offers a strong value at around $7,300+. Some Hermes watches might contain sourced or quartz movements, but others feature even more complicated mechanics and interesting concepts — like the Arceau l’Heure de la Lune, for example.

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Chanel

4 fashion brand watches

Chanel

Chanel’s best-known watches are the women’s J12 in white ceramic. They’re so iconic, they’ve been copied endlessly. While the concept has been expanded to mens watches with black, matte-textured ceramic-and-steel models, the brand’s dedicated men’s watch is the Monsieur. While that name references Chanel’s overwhelmingly feminine lineup, the Monsieur is a downright cool-ass watch featuring jumping hours, retrograde minutes and a complicated in-house movement.

At an even more esoteric and “watch nerdy” level, Chanel has a range of timepieces combining high-end watchmaking with artistic crafts and technical materials (such as ceramic). With a couple of highly compelling mens watches already in the lineup, there’s a lot of potential for Chanel to appeal more to male watch collectors.

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Ralph Lauren

4 fashion brand watches

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren’s watches are perhaps the most aesthetically polarizing of those discussed here: They’re kinda all over the place in terms of style and clearly don’t come from a traditional watchmaker’s perspective, but the brand has shown commitment to producing them with the level of quality and detail watch enthusiasts expect. Even those with giant horse-and-polo-player logos or a well-dressed bear on the dial offer sourced Swiss automatic movements.

Examples like the Slim Classique, on the other hand, seem like very traditional watchmaking, indeed, with traditional engine-turned guilloché work on its dial and bezel. The brand has been known to use high-quality mechanical movements — including highly complicated ones — from the Richemont Group’s brands like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget. Arguably, however, the brand’s most notable models are in the similar Sporting, Automotive and Safari collections. These have some controversial design elements but are at least interesting, in some cases incorporating wood in the dials and bezels.

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This Beloved Watch Is Perfect for Everyday Wear

If you’re anything like us, we’ve been dreaming about travels and our bucket-list destinations. And while we’ve been picturing our desired trips and planning the outfits to match, travel can be a challenge these days. Luckily, while the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT is optimized for travel, that functionality also makes it ideal for wearing every day. The dual time zone function is perfect for coordinating with clients in different time zones if you’re working remotely, while the sleek and refined silhouette are perfect for more formal meetings or events. The watches in the Super Sea Wolf GMT line are Swiss-made and extremely precise, with a movement housed in a 40mm case and a premium class three-link bracelet (but if you prefer more of a sporty look, Zodiac’s field straps work with Super Sea Wolf line). Whether you’re jet-setting across the globe or working from home, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf is the perfect accompaniment.

Available starting 11/18

      Learn More: Here


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    Complete Buying Guides to the Best Watch Brands and Models

    We get it: buying a watch is often a serious commitment, and there are so many options and factors to consider that it can make your head spin. For newbies, it can be downright overwhelming. Hell, even relatively experienced watch collectors need to do research. It sure would help to have the important information broken down clearly in one place.

    And that’s what we’re here for. From prestige brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe to those at more affordable price ranges like Oris, Hamilton, G-Shock and Timex, we’ve broken down many of the most popular watch brands’ catalogs into digestible but comprehensive buying guides. The below guides offer the information and context you need to make an informed decision, as well as insight from experienced watch collectors.

    The Complete Rolex Buying Guide: Every Current Model Explained

    We distill down the world of modern Rolex to something easily decipherable to help give you a leg up for your next purchase.

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    Everything You Need to Know to Buy a Rolex Datejust

    The Rolex Datejust, in continuous production since 1945, is one of the most popular watches in the world .

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    Everything You Need to Know About Rolex’s Most Popular Watch

    From languishing on shelves to becoming the hottest watch in the world, Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona has had a wild ride, indeed.

    LEARN MORE

    The Complete Buying Guide to Omega Watches

    We break down the catalog of the one of the world’s foremost watchmakers, from the Seamaster to the Speedmaster and more.

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    How to Buy an Omega Speedmaster Watch

    We take you through the different iterations one of the world’s most famous watches, from Moonwatch to X-33 and beyond.

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    The Complete Buying Guide to Tudor Watches

    Once subordinate to big brother Rolex, Tudor has come into its own and offers some of the best value in watches today.

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    The Complete Buying Guide to Patek Philippe

    We break down the catalog of one of the finest watch manufacturers in the world, explaining what makes Patek a byword for high-end watchmaking.

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    These Perpetual Calendars Are Some of the Best Watches from Patek Philippe

    Patek Philippe’s complicated watchmaking is famous the world over, and their mechanical perpetual calendars are the stars of their catalog.

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    The Complete Panerai Buying Guide: Every Current Model Explained

    A comprehensive guide to and brief history of one of the most notable dive watch manufacturers in the world and all its timepieces.

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    Everything You Need to Know Before You Buy a TAG Heuer Watch

    Some don’t remember a time before TAG and Heuer were one, but over 150 years of history makes for an extensive catalog of awesome watches.

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    The Complete Buying Guide to Hamilton Watches

    Hamilton makes a solid entry-level luxury watch for just about every kind of person or occasion — here, we break down the model lines.

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    The Complete Buying Guide to Casio G-Shock Watches

    Casio makes a rugged G-Shock in just about every color and for every type of profession — check ’em all out here.

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    How to Buy a Timex Watch

    Timex has been cranking out millions of affordable watches since 1854. Use this handy guide to figure out which of their timepieces is best for you.

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    Everything You Need to Know to Buy an Oris Watch

    Yes, it’s possible to get incredible value out of a mechanical wristwatch without spending several thousand dollars: Look to independent Swiss brand Oris.

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    The Complete Buying Guide to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Watch

    Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was one of the world’s first modern dive watches, and there are more versions of it now than ever.

    LEARN MORE

    Complete Guide to Garmin Running Watches

    Every single Garmin running watch explained, so it’s easy to compare and contrast. Plus, find the right one for you.

    LEARN MORE

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    One of the Very Best Military Watches Is Back

    Hear ye, hear ye — come one and all, military watch nerds. Today we have something truly special for you.

    No, really, I swear, this is dope: Benrus, once-defunct, NY-founded American watch company, has remade one of their most famous watches, The Type I/II. Previously, you had to go through Basic Underwater Demolition School or raise fifth columns in Southeast Asia in order to get your hands on one of these. Not so anymore.

    hodinkee benerus

    Hodinkee

    Benrus has remade a special, limited edition of the Type I, and it’s available from the Hodinkee Shop. The new Type I is largely true to the original: 42mm steel, bead-blasted case; bi-directional 12-hour bezel; automatic ETA movement; lumed hands and dial; and 300m of water resistance. (The original had 1,200 ft. of water resistance, but it also had an acrylic bezel insert, tritium lume, and an acrylic crystal, all of which has been upgraded here.) Non-fixed spring bars also allow you to use two-piece straps, which is an added bonus.

    Powered by the ETA cal. 2681 with hacking, the new LE is true to the original’s dial design, which featured only round hour plots, lumed sword hands and a minute/seconds track — there were no extraneous elements, such as an inner 24-hour track, to distract from the watch’s legibility. A matte finish to the case kept the watch’s visibility low, while the asymmetric shape ensured protection for the crown and a highly robust, impact-resistant design. Such is also true of the LE, which even features case back engravings that near match those of the original (save for the production date).

    hodinkee benerus

    Hodinkee

    Limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at $1,695, the new Type 1 is a military watch collector’s dream (though you could conceivably get a very similar watch for significantly less money in the form of the Mk. II Paradive). A portion of the proceeds from each sale will be donated to the Boulder Crest Foundation, however, which supports veterans with PTSD — a worthy cause if ever there was one.

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    This Legendary Mountaineer Has Choice Words for Adventure Tourists

    Now 76 years old, explorer and mountaineer Reinhold Messner looks back on a career that’s one of the most extraordinary of the last century. With his most harrowing exploits, a political career and other accomplishments behind him, Messner now lectures and writes, having published over 80 books. Recently, he also partnered with watchmaker Montblanc on a special bronze edition of the brand’s mountaineering-themed world-time watch, the Geosphere.

    He’s traversed the most challenging and remote places on earth with minimal gear, but Messner’s kit always includes a watch. When in 1980 he became the first person to complete a solo summit of Mount Everest, Messner wore a Rolex Oysterquartz — and he’s been known to wear an Omega Speedmaster and other watches throughout his adventuring. The special-edition Montblanc Geosphere not only has a world-time function with northern and southern hemisphere displays, but also marks on the dial the seven most challenging summits on each continent, known as the Messner List.

    Though his resume is a catalog of firsts (9 in the Guinness Book of World Records, famously including first ascents without the use of supplementary oxygen), superlatives and generally varied and remarkable feats, it’s clear that the experiences themselves are what matter to him. He’s seen first-hand the effects of climate change on the glaciers over the decades, and has long been an environmental advocate. He also has some choice words on the difference between mountaineers and tourists.

    We were lucky to have the chance to speak with one of the greatest adventurers of all time about these topics and more.

    The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.

    Q. Were the greatest challenges of your career physical or mental? How did you overcome those challenges — training, willpower, a combination?

    A. It’s a combination of many things. The first thing was instinct, which I gained in my youngest years when I had the opportunity to climb with my father first and afterwards with my younger brother. We did many, many simple things in the Dolomites and in the Alps. And so, the experience became like an instinct.

    My art is reduction, reduction, reduction.

    In my young years, I could react for the better to the deepness of certain lines which we found on the wall. Later on, organization was also important because on higher mountains you could not go hoping to find a grocery store or something. You had to start from Europe with all your equipment, it had to be measured in an exact way. The logistics were calculated quite well for knowing how long we have and how long we need to go back to safety again.

    So, there’s a large necessity for mental power and physical training. These are necessary before starting a huge expedition.

    messner's feat
    Messner in 1980 giving a presentation after his unprecedented solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.

    KeystoneGetty Images

    Q. Is there a single piece of gear that holds special significance for you? Do you still have it?

    A. I still have a few pieces in my cellar. But you know that I built six museums on the topic of the mountains, with a center and five satellite museums. There, we have not hundreds, but thousands of relics of famous climbers who lived before me. They are much more important than my relics. A relic means a hammer from a famous mountaineer, shoes of the sherpas, the shoes of 1850. But this is only possible to see when you go there.

    I built this museum with the tactic to use relics, to use art to tell the stories. So there’s a picture, painting, and nearby maybe the rope of Hermann Buhl or the ice axe or Hermann Buhl, a rare one, which in combination have an emotional impact.

    Q. What’s the most surprising or unusual piece of gear you make sure to bring on every trip?

    A. I never look to always have the same stuff with me, though some people do this. I have a mascot [lucky item], the mascot of Bonatti. [Walter] Bonatti was the leading climber worldwide of the ’50s and ’60s and he gave me his mascot before his death. It’s a very nice thing which he had on K2 and on many, many ascents. This is in the museum. But I did not have one. I never had a mascot.

    There is no single piece of gear I used in all my ascents. I changed it because the equipment changed. I am active since 1949 when I did my first ascent in the Dolomites. And afterwards, the ascents became bigger and bigger. In the beginning, we had virtually nothing. In the ’60s and ’70s, I would say I had quite a lot of material, but afterwards I learned to leave it behind. At the end, I went with virtually nothing.

    mmm corones
    Messner Mountain Museum Corones, designed by the late architect Zaha Hadid sits nearly 7,500 feet above sea level in South Tyrol, Italy and is devoted to the traditions, history and discipline of mountaineering.

    Werner Hulthmacher

    Q. Over your career, how did material innovations such as lighter gear, waterproof materials, etc. help you achieve success?

    A. It’s clear that I used modern equipment like Goretex jackets or new ropes. But I also climbed with the first ropes people used in the last centuries.

    But my art was not to use better and better materials or more and more equipment: my art was to eliminate. Clearly I needed clothes, I needed shoes, I needed a special ice axe, whatever. But I left about 90% of what normal people use, and this was the key to my success. I did all these lightweight expeditions, I did them much quicker than others, I spent a tenth of the money others needed for doing the same thing because they brought too much gear to the mountains.

    My art is reduction; Reduction, reduction, reduction.

    reinhold messner's five week hike though the gobi desert
    Messner’s essential equipment from his five-week-long solo hike across the Gobi desert in 2004.

    Chien-min ChungGetty Images

    Q. Mountaineers now have access to GPS, better gear and satellite images to plan routes — what has this done for the field? Is there a greater reliance on technology?

    A. It’s logical that people today are using this technology because it exists. I was very lucky that it was not possible to phone from Everest when I climbed Everest. I was far away from civilization. A letter which I wrote at base camp to my parents reached home maybe four weeks later. And I could not get information from home.

    I never used artificial oxygen in my life but I always used a watch.

    For me, it was very important to be exposed in this way, to be far away from civilization, far away from any possibility of being saved in case of emergency. With a telephone, there is the possibility to send a picture from the summit of an 8,000 meter peak to all of the medias around the world, and this has been done.

    There is the danger that many young people who are not very well prepared go just to show something, but in reality they don’t do these adventures. They only go for a picture, to send a picture and go home. They can go to certain places with helicopters that do these pictures, and so the storytelling about this achievement is very vague and not real.

    There are other risks and mistakes made, especially in the Alps. Many young people, but also older people, they go into the mountains with no good equipment, they are not prepared. And when they are stuck, because they see night coming in and they didn’t look at their watch before starting, they call the helicopter, the rescue people, and they bring them home.

    And if you know that in case of emergency the helicopter is immediately there, it changes your view of the mountain, it changes your mind.

    Q. What role have watches played in your adventures? Are they necessary?

    montblanc 1858 geopshere messner le 262 montblanc 1858 geopshere messner le
    The Montblanc 1858 Geopshere Messner LE

    Montblanc

    A. I never used artificial oxygen in my life but I always used a watch, different watches, and now I have the Montblanc watch. But the watch is important for adventurers for logistics: you have to know how much time it takes to reach the summit because it’s also important to know how much time is necessary to return to safety.

    I would say that it’s also possible to go into the wilderness without a watch and to see when the weather is changing, when the sun is coming up so I can start, when sun is setting and I can lie down… And people a thousand years ago, they lived in this way. But we are much more sophisticated in our expeditions.

    We have to calculate in grams and in centimeters what we are handling before we start, so we need the watch to know where we are and the time we have at our disposal. Especially as a rock climber, as a traverser of Antartica, you will quite quickly lose the feeling for time. If you are only concentrating you don’t know that a minute has passed. So we use a watch to be orientated time-wise.

    Q. What aspect of the Montblanc Geosphere resonates most with your personality or career?

    A. On this watch, I see the Seven Summits. I see the northern hemisphere where I spent a long time. I see the southern hemisphere, where I also spent a long time. In my life, I tried to reach the most remote areas of the world: less in the jungle, but also in the jungle, the biggest deserts, the big ice fields, Greenland, the South Pole, North Pole and the high mountains. And in all these points which I could reach, I used the minimum equipment, only what I needed. But a watch was always [among] this equipment.

    Q. Are mountaineers, by nature, environmentalists? How is climate change affecting mountaineering and exploring?

    A. The tragic thing is that in the mountains all over the world, we see and we suffer from climate change more than in the big cities — but the problems are coming from the big cities: from industry, from overpopulation, from traffic and so on. Mountaineers are not destructive if they make a fire somewhere, and tourism in the mountains is not the problem.

    The problem is that we are too many in this world. The problem is that in a hundred years we used more than half of all the fuel, the fossil energy, and we produce a lot of CO2. And now we see the consequences in the mountains: big pieces, like a small city, falling down; there are storms, very strong storms; in America there’s a big problem of fires coming from the dry woods. And these are the consequences of global warming.

    I try to be accurate in my lectures and my films and tell about these changes in the mountains because I see them. I don’t need the scientists to tell me there is a problem: I see it in the mountains, in the woods, in high places in the glaciers. The glaciers are slowly disappearing, in Antarctica less, but in Greenland huge pieces are collapsing and falling in the Arctic Ocean.

    I don’t need the scientists to tell me there is a problem: I see it in the mountains, in the woods, in high places in the glaciers.

    Two hundred years ago in the Alps, some farmers were very afraid because the glaciers were growing — and now most of the glaciers will be gone. It will be a big problem for the people living in the Alps because they will miss the sweet water, they will also lack water for irrigation. And we produce a lot of energy with the glacier water, but if the glaciers are gone, there is no more equilibrium.

    I tell this story, the effects which I see, but I have no clear answer. Okay, we could change, we could reduce our consumption, but if somebody were to run for president in any nation, and tell us that all of us have to reduce consumption, you will not get the votes to be a politician.

    I think we need a long time, not only decades, we need much more time to reach equilibrium in our habitat again. We will not survive in a habitat which is out of control, out of equilibrium.

    honnold yosemite
    Alex Honnold on his legendary free solo climb of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park

    Jimmy Chin

    Q. How do you see the future of adventuring? Which mountaineers are now leading examples for the field?

    A. Now, we have great mountaineers. I’ll tell you two names: John Roskelley, who was maybe the bravest high-altitude climber in the ’80s and ’90s, a genius high-altitude climber. And now we have [Alex] Honnold who did this solo ascent in Yosemite Valley which showed that he is beyond any dimension which was thinkable before him.

    And there will be more great alpinists around the world because alpinism began in the alps 250 years ago, and now it’s growing as a global activity.

    But most of the climbers are only going into climbing. It’s a beautiful sport, but this is not alpinism, it has nothing to do with the encounter between man and nature. This kind of sport will be an Olympic game next year, and you will see these young girls and young boys running 20 meters up an artificial wall on artificial holds and doing it in different ways.

    We have another fact that many people are going to the Himalayas, also to Mount Everest. The local people, by the hundreds, go first and prepare a piste. You know, a piste where you can ski, but in this case, it’s a piste that’s for hiking. So they hike on a piste, on a prepared way, with doctors, with extra helpers, guides, oxygen, and there’s a huge infrastructure for the summit — this is tourism.

    The tourists are going where there is infrastructure available. Alpinists go where there are no other people and no infrastructure, none at all.

    You Can Bid on Sylvester Stallone’s First Panerai Watch

    sly stallone watches

    Phillips

    Sylvester Stallone is much more than a bulging-muscled, tough-guy action hero. Among other examples of his sophisticated taste, his discovery of a Panerai watch in a shop in Florence led to the brand’s transition from obscurity to worldwide prestige. It’s a remarkable story, and now, that very watch which he famously wore in the 1996 film Daylight is going up for auction.

    Stallone is an aficionado of art and Panerais, and also a prolific watch collector. Alongside that 44mm Panerai Luminor reference 5218-201/a, four of the actor’s Richard Mille watches will also be offered as part of the Racing Pulse auction by Phillips on December 12, 2020. The auction also includes a Paul Newman Rolex Daytona and a Heuer Monaco worn by Steve McQueen in the movie Le Mans. You can see the full auction catalog here.

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    1 Panerai Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A

    phillips.com

    Though only 677 examples were made of this reference to begin with, this isn’t just any Panerai Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A. It’s the exact one that Sly wore in the movie that brought Panerai to the attention of the world. 

    Estimate: $40,000 to $80,000

    2 Richard Mille Ref. RM25-01 Tourbillon Chronograph Adventure

    phillips.com

    What do you get when you mix the typically outrageous Richard Mille with Sylvester Stallone’s Rambo character? This complicated horological insanity, apparently. The RM25-01 was built with input from the actor. 

    Estimate: $250,000 to $500,000.

    3 Richard Mille Ref. RM032 AL TI

    phillips.com

    This Richard Mille dive watch with a flyback chronograph is made of titanium and is 50mm wide. It was also worn in the film The Expendables III. 

    Estimate: $60,000 to $120,000

    4 Ref. RM 59-01 AN CA

    phillips.com

    With its technical materials, a tonneau case shape, complicated movement and audacious design choices, this is classic Richard Mille. Made to be extremely lightweight for the Olympian Yohan Blake, only 50 examples were made. 

    Estimate: $300,000 to $600,000

    5 Richard Mille RM052-01

    50 phillips.com

    This watch has a case made of ceramic and carbon nanotubes with a pink gold skull suspended in the middle. It wasn’t in a movie, but it does belong to Sylvester Stallone and would stylistically fit right into one of the Expendables films. 

    Estimate: $350,000 to $700,000

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    Three Watches to Check Out for Veterans Day

    Today, we honor those who served in America’s Armed Forces in a holiday that coincides with Armistice Day and Remembrance Day around the world, both of which take place on the 11th day of the 11th month to mark the end of World War I in 1918. Several watch companies focus on veteran’s initiatives throughout the year, while others release special products to coincide specifically with Veteran’s Day. Here are three of them, each very different.

    Bulova Hack Watch Special Edition VWI

    This special edition of Bulova’s Hack Watch — itself a tribute to a 1950s/1960s American military timepiece — is being launched alongside an announcement that the Veteran’s Watchmaking Initiative will become one of the brand’s new service centers. (Bulova also donated tools and equipment to the school, which gives veterans a chance to learn watchmaking.)

    Diameter: 38mm

    Movement: Miyota 82S0 automatic

    Price: $395

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    Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X WOSG Exclusive

    Ulysse Nardin frequently partners on different initiatives with One More Wave, a U.S. organization that provides surf therapy to wounded veterans. Included in this price is a surfboard, handmade in San Diego, from One More Wave, which provides boards free of charge for vets.

    Diameter: 42mm

    Movement: Mechanical handwound

    Price: $25,000

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    AVI-8 x Help for Heroes Limited Edition

    This watch is actually from our friends across the pond, and its sale helps aid wounded British vets. Limited to 300 pieces, this pilot’s watch is made in collaboration with Help for Heroes, which provides emotional and financial support to wounded members of British Armed Forces.

    Diameter: Japanese automatic

    Movement: 42mm

    Price: $315

    Shop Now

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    These Classic Chronographs Make the Perfect Gift

    Few watch companies carry the cache the Zenith does. The manufacture is known for its impeccably constructed chronographs, like the El Primero column-wheel chronograph, which occupies the number 20 slot on out list of the greatest watches of all time. Few timepieces strike such a delicate balance of style, function and form as the Zenith chronographs — anyone, watch enthusiast or not, would be happy to unwrap an El Primero this holiday season. Whether you’re looking for something classic, modern or design-forward, Zenith makes an El Primo that fits the bill.

    Chronomaster Revival Shadow

    zenith buying guide

    Zenith

    The Chronomaster Revival Shadow is the ultimate blacked-out chronograph. It features a microblasted titanium case, the original 1969 case diameter of 37mm and is powered by an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph. For the modern watch enthusiast who appreciates a nod to the past, look no further.

        Price: $8,200

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        Chronomaster Revival A386 Manufacture Edition

        zenith buying guide

        Zenith

        The Chronomaster Revival A386 Manufacture Edition could be the coolest watch that Zenith makes. Its dial was inspired by vintage unreleased prototypes that were found in the attic at the manufacture. Like the Chronomaster Revival Shadow, this watch features the original 1969 case diameter and hides an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph behind the dial.

            Price: $8,700

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            Defy 21

            zenith buying guide

            Zenith

            Where the previous two timepieces we’ve mentioned are fairly traditional in their function, the Defy 21 takes horological innovation to the next level. The Defy 21 features two escapements, one for the time and one for the chronograph function. The time escapement retains the El Primero’s 36,000 bph operating frequency, but the chronograph escapement runs at an insane 360,000 bph, which allows it to record times to the nearest hundredth of a second. All that, and it’s a certified chronometer, to boot.

                Price: $13,100

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