All posts in “style”

8 Types of Sweaters You Should Know

Getting your layering game right for winter is crucial for two reasons: you want to stay warm and clothes are fun. But before you look to down jackets and tweed topcoats, don’t skip the all-essential sweater. Once you’ve got your base layer figured out, the next step is the mid-layer. These are the ones you should know.

Crewneck

The only way you can go wrong with a crewneck sweater is if your head goes through an armhole. Its simplicity is surpassed only by the humble t-shirt (and maybe a scarf), which makes it a great candidate for any outfit. It’s like the center square in Bingo. Start out with a mid-grey, navy or black one in merino or lambswool before moving on to more advanced moves like intarsia knits or mock necks.

Premium Lambswool Crew Neck Long-Sleeve Sweater by Uniqlo $40

Hand Framed Shetland Crew Knit by Inverallan $149

Shetland Wool Sweater by Prada $550

V-Neck

The V-neck sweater has drifted back from the sidelines and we’re all for it. Though its popularity might wax and wane, it remains a perennial classic. Wear it tailored with a crisp button-up layered beneath. Channel refined relaxation with a roomy-not-slouchy version with your white tee of choice peeking over, chinos below.

Washable Merino Wool V-Neck Sweater by J.Crew $98

Double Heart V-Neck Knit by Comme Des Garçons Play $279

Appliquéd Striped Wool Sweater by Gucci $870

Cardigan

Beloved by Mr. Rogers, Alan Watts, Coco Chanel, Steve McQueen, Kurt Cobain, and early aughts emos such as myself, the cardigan is an open-style sweater. Buttoned up, zipped up or belted shut, cardigans come in all different flavors with all variants of collars and fabrics. Its roster of notable fans is proof positive of its versatility, whether you’re hosting a children’s television show, sitting front row at Paris Fashion Week or crying in your bedroom with “Tell All Your Friends” blaring.

Four Eyes by Howlin’ $200

Donegal Scottish Cardigan by Flint & Tinder $398

Fun Mix Aran Cable Cardigan by Thom Browne $799

Vest

Sweater vests, to the jest of Demetri Martin, are also back. They come in all sorts of iterations from v-neck to crewneck to button up and more, sweater vests are arguably better at showing off layers than either cardigans or pullovers while allowing its wearer a wide range of motion. Try it out full-on Doug Funnie style with a simple tee underneath, wear it with a sport coat or even layered with a cardigan.

Wool Sweater Vest by Beams Plus $168

Hadfield Merino Wool Sweater Vest by John Smedley $235

Slim Fit Fair Isle Jacquard Sweater Vest by Acne Studios $420

Turtleneck

Turtlenecks — along with mock necks and roll necks — are a great way to frame your face. Want to show more neck? Reach for a mock neck, the turtleneck’s little brother. Or take it back to the J.Crew’s classic roll neck for something more rustic. Go Campbell’s chunky with a pom-topped beanie, jeans, duck boots and a drive to an upstate cabin. Take it uptown and pair a slim iteration with a tailored suit. Or, turn up the J.Crew prep and throw on a denim shirt underneath with little collar peeping out to see if winter’s gonna last another six weeks.

1988 Cotton Rollneck Sweater by J.Crew $85

Nick Mockneck Knit by NN07 $185

Boatbuilder Ribbed Turtleneck by Inis Meaín $688

Zip

Zippered sweaters are pretty straightforward. They’re sweaters. With zippers (1/4, 1/2, Full). They’re great if you also prefer jeans with a zipper versus a button fly and come in a few different lengths like the turtleneck and its variations, from full zip to half zip and even quarter zip. You could style this the same way you would any other sweater, but maybe the best move is to opt for a beefy knit and wear it like a jacket.

Rugged Merino Wool Half-Zip Sweater by J.Crew $98

Navy Half-Zip Pockets by Andersen-Andersen $398

Art Deco Full Zip Cardigan by Arpenteur $379

Cable Knit

Now we step into the part of the sweater world where specific fabrics get recognized. Cable knit sweaters add a textural element beyond the fabric’s material itself. Cable knits — sometimes called Aran or fisherman sweaters — are made using cable needles which help in raising yarns in specific patterns to achieve crossing textures on the surface of the fabric. Also known as Aran or fisherman sweaters, the knitting style is native to the Aran Islands off the coast of Ireland. They’re said to have been used to identify drowned seaman with their intricately patterned knits. The journalistic integrity of that story is questionable, but the sweater style is inarguably stylish. Classic versions will come in the natural color of the sheep’s wool, a creamy white — oat milk, if you will. Think of them as a cable knit sweater with more history.

Signature Cotton Fisherman Sweater by L.L. Bean $98

Fisherman Sweater by American Trench $235

Cable-Knit Wool sweater by Stone Island $665

Fair Isle

Rooted in Shetland knitwear, Fair Isle sweaters are heavily associated with the holiday season and skiing. They’re loud and speak for themselves, so it’s best to keep everything else simple if you want the pattern to shine.

Fair Isle Knitted Sweater by Alex Mill $165

Before the Snowfall by Howlin’ $215

Wool Fair Isle Turtleneck by Todd Snyder $298
10 Types of Wool You Need to Know

We’ve been wearing wool as far back as 6000 BC and have been breeding animals for their wool for even longer. And though wool offers many benefits, not every type of wool is the same. The wonder fiber comes from a variety of animals, each of which imparts a unique set of characteristics. So it’s unsurprising that there are a few different popular types of wool. Though there are dozens of varieties of wools, these are the 10 you should know. Read the Story

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

Gerald Ortiz is a staff writer at Gear Patrol covering style. From San Diego, now New York City.

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How to Care for Long Hair

Any bloke with hair can grow it long and show it off. But those guys who put in the right research, and who invest in their hair care and styling regimen, will outshine the rest. Their long hair will sit better, look healthy, tangle less, cooperate more, and will truly be a hair style, rather than a lazily earned protein nest atop the head.

If you plan to grow out your hair, or if your long hair is in need of some extra attention, then here are the essential products, the best care and styling regimen, and some maintenance tips for the process.

The Products

Shampoo

Although you’re going to shampoo just 1 to 2 times weekly with long hair, you still need to invest in one that doesn’t strip your hair of its natural moisture. Look for shampoos that promise to be both hydrating and conditioning, but never pick one that is a 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner. You need to save that second step for its own powers to work. (Read on.) Alternatively, if you suffer from dandruff or itchy scalp, it’s important to prioritize that with a shampoo, especially considering the number of other products you may be applying.

As for ultra-nourishing shampoos, we like Davines’. It soothes dry, damaged hair (which is often the case for long, aged hair), and it also soothes the scalp.

Nourishing Shampoo by Davines $32

Conditioner

While you should only wash your long hair 1 to 2 times per week, you should absolutely be conditioning it daily. There is no harm in doing this — quite the opposite, in fact. Now, more than ever, you need to prioritize the long-term health and ongoing strength of your hair. So, fortify it daily with a soothing, softening conditioner when you shower.

We like Modern Mammals’ daily conditioner, which is launching in December 2019 (pre-order at that link). They’ve spent a year perfecting their formula, which doubles as a shampoo-free rinse of pollution and grime.

Daily Conditioner by Modern Mammals Learn More: Here

Hair Oil

You can use hair oil for a couple different reasons. On the one hand, it helps tame flyaways and keeps hair from frizzing. Better yet, it nourishes dry strands—especially the ends of the hairs, preventing them from splitting—and restores a healthy shine to the hair. (Worry not, a couple drops won’t make your hair look greasy.)

We like Aesop hair oil. Yes, it’s called “Shine,” but you’ll only shine as much as you want. More importantly, it nourishes and defines the hair thanks to ingredients like jojoba, borage seed, and petitgrain.

Shine by Aesop $33

Dry Shampoo

On the non-shampoo mornings, you may notice that some excess sebum has gathered on your scalp, and that your hair isn’t as lively as you’d like. Resist the urge to shampoo, which can dry out all of your hair, and instead target the scalp with some dry shampoo spray. It’ll soak up the excess grime, seemingly disappearing it into thin air, and will give life and volume back to your hair. Use this on rinsed, dry hair, however, as it can clump up if your hair is wet or covered in product.

We like R+Co dry shampoo, since it’s packed with vitamins and proteins to enrich the hair while it soaks up gunk.

Death Valley Dry Shampoo by R+Co $32

Blow Dryer

Get an ionic hairdryer, which helps dry the hair faster, while also minimizing damage. (Typically, faster means higher temps and more damage to the hair; ionic makes your life easier in both senses.) A blow dry will reinforce any product you apply in the morning, and help maintain control over your style throughout the day. It can also give your hair a little extra volume, too, and an ionic one will do so without overdrying and poofing.

We like Conair’s ionic dryer, which also won’t break the bank.

1875 Watt Full Size Pro Hair Dryer by Conair $20

Styling Cream

Your longer hair will often style itself, thanks to gravity and a good texturing from your stylist. However, you’ll still want to apply a dime- or nickel-sized amount of styling cream to it on the daily, to keep control over it. This will prevent any wind sweeping, frizzing, tangling, and the likes. Most people won’t even realize you’re wearing anything. But trust us—you will notice, and you’ll be so relieved for the difference it makes.

We like Oribe’s styling cream. (Or shall we say ‘crème’?) It gives you the control you need without locking your hairs into place. You can run your hands—or those of another — through your hair without compromise.

Crème by Oribe $42

Texture Spray

A texturizing spray, often boasting minerals or sea salts, will give your long hair more definition and body. You can apply it last in any styling regimen, then tousle everything for just the right kind of unaffected surfer-caliber finish. It’s especially good for giving you definition at the middle and ends of the hair, whereas the dry shampoo and creams often work better atop the head. (Though you can and should apply and comb cream or oil throughout the strands.)

We like Fellow Barber’s mineral spray. It combines algae and sea salt for a nourishing and texturizing finish, with definition, texture, and light hold on the menu.

Mineral Spray by Fellow $28

Leave-In Conditioner

Once or twice a week (perhaps on the nights you wash), you can follow your shower with a leave-in conditioner, often called a leave-in mask. You apply it to towel-dried (damp) hair, and typically can leave it in—hence the name. However, some hair masks are designed to be rinsed out after 10 to 20 minutes, so please read the instructions carefully. These products seep deep into the cuticle of your hair to strengthen and soften it, restoring dry, damaged hair to a healthy state—or preventing healthy hair from losing its luster.

We like Sachuajuan’s leave-in conditioner since it works well both morning and night—as the last step before bed or the first step before styling.

Leave in Conditioner by Sachuajuan $31

Comb

This will help you distribute product, tame flyaways and coach hair into place as you style in the morning. You can always tousle the hair once it’s styled if you need to hide comb-tooth tracks.

We like Byrd’s pocket comb. It’s sturdy plastic so it won’t snap, but soft as well when it comes to combing your precious hairs.

Pocket Comb by Byrd $10

Brush

Before bed each night, it’s wise to brush your freshly rinsed (or washed) hair. This helps distribute the natural oils in the hair all the way to the ends so that you avoid splitting and fraying. On the days you wash, when there aren’t as many natural oils in play, you can add a couple drops of hair oil, and instead comb those into place. Do this before bed each night, and you’ll notice an enormous difference in the strength and quality of your hair, and quickly.

We like Verb’s brush because it’s also ventilated, which means you can use your hairbrush while you blow dry, since it allows air to pass through its backside.

Blow Dry Brush by Verb $16

The Regimen

Here’s the best way—and frequency—to utilize the above products.

  • Shampoo once or twice weekly.
  • Condition daily. Always after shampooing, or on its own. Never use it together with shampoo, nor before.
  • On the days you shampoo, follow it with a leave-in conditioner (in the morning, or before bed). Often this can replace your in-shower conditioner for the day if your shampoo itself is nourishing.
  • On the days you don’t shampoo, or the mornings after, use dry shampoo to soak up excess oil.
  • Apply a dime or nickel or styling cream to clean, towel-dried hair in the morning.
  • Comb it through, then blow dry.
  • Add a couple drops of hair oil for added luster or shine, as needed, or to the ends of the hair to control flyaways.
  • On days when you don’t need as much product or regimen, try applying a few drops of hair oil through rinsed, dried strands for just enough control over flyaways.
  • Finish your style with a spritz of texturizing spray in the ends and side of the hair—or at the roots if you want added lift there. Run fingers through hair for a more natural finish.
  • Brush rinsed, towel-dried (damp) hair nightly, to detangle and evenly distribute scalp oils. Add a couple drops of hair oil to the middle section and ends, to help nurture the parts of your hair that aren’t close to the oily scalp.

The Maintenance

Maintaining long hair is much simpler when you focus on a thorough daily and weekly regimen as outlined above. The main things to mind are to avoid excessive exposure to harsh chemicals (like chlorine), as well as harsh sunlight (UV damage affects hair quality, too).

Visit your stylist every 8 to 10 weeks to clean up the ends and texturize the hair throughout your head—this is especially important as it grows out, to avoid awkward in-between stages. Don’t strain about whether or not it negates the “growing out” process. They’re simply layering and texturizing it so it looks healthier and grows evenly.

Be mindful of additional stress on the hair, like with hair ties and hats. This can either pull the hair too taut and cause it to fall out permanently, or it can lead to breakage and fraying at the site of the strain.

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

The Forever Floatride GROW from Reebok Are A 100% Sustainable Pair Of Running Shoes

No matter how we want it to be all okay, we can’t turn out back to what’s happening to our planet. Our worst fears are already here as climate change is devastating the world. All living things are affected, and it will only get worse if humanity does not put a stop what’s causing it. Therefore, several industries are implementing new ways to lessen environmental impact. Each segment is exploring new ways to reduce emissions, while others are finding new methods for sustainability. This time, we’re highlighting Reebok and its Forever Floatride GROW.

Plastic is one of the biggest contributors to landfills and marine pollution as these are generally non-recyclable. Reebok, along with other sports apparel brands such as Adidas, Converse, and Nike are showcasing a lineup of footwear that are practically renewable. Through innovative recycling methods, these manufacturers are putting waste plastic to good use. Meanwhile, there is another way to avoid adding to the waste dilemma. That’s where the Forever Floatride GROW comes in.

According to Rebook, its new model is a 100% sustainable product. It’s not releasing anytime soon, but it is something we are eager to have on our feet. The brand is not the only one to make the claim. Native Shoes previously gave us the Plant Shoe, which as the name suggest is as eco-friendly as it gets. The materials it uses are all sourced from various flora. Meanwhile, the Forever Floatride GROW is using a mix of algae, natural rubber, castor beans, and eucalyptus. We are seriously hoping that more companies adopt a similar approach.

Discover more about it: here

Images courtesy of Reebok

Mother Dirt Has the Ingredients for a Great Holiday Gift

Mother Dirt was founded in 2015 by MIT scientists with a patented bacteria and a mission to bring your skin back to a natural state of balance with clinically proven products. Their products tackle problem…

On Gives You Performance And Style With The Limited Edition Cloud Hi Edge

Sneaker culture is growing exponentially over the years. It used to be that people bought sneaker purely for athletic purposes. Now, consumers are more flexible and prefer to buy pairs that are fashionable and offer comfort over performance. Striking the right balance between aesthetics, ergonomics, and functionality can be difficult for manufacturers. Yet, sometimes the stars align perfectly and deliver just enough inspiration to craft an attractive set of kicks. One such example is the On Cloud Hi Edge.

On is a Swiss Brand recognized for footwear that caters to individuals who love running. Now, it’s making a small shift to give its fans a reliable running shoe that also makes the owner look good during leisurely engagements. The Cloud Hi Edge does not only appear stylish for urban excursions, but it is ready to adapt the moment you shift to a sprint.

The manufacturer is currently offering four colourways to suit anyone’s tastes. We have Sand/Brown, Sand/Acacia, Ink/Mustard, and Juniper/Glacier. In our opinion, all variants look remarkable. There enough contrast between the shades and just the right amount of bright tones. The latter is a common feature among running shoes to keep users visible in low-light situations.

According to On, the Cloud Hi Edge is a limited-edition release with street-ready style in mind. It may be an experimental venture, but we can’t help but want more of it in the future. Details about the materials are quite scarce, but we do know that the upper mesh comes with a mix of different textiles. It sits on Heloin superfoam with CloudTec outsole. Moreover, the Speedboard polymer gives owners superior support and assistance during their runs.

Learn more about it: here

Images courtesy of On

The Indonesian Denim Brands Giving Japan a Run for Its Money

There’s a lot to laud when you’re talking about premium denim brands from America, Japan and Europe. Each brand’s taken creative license with the preeminent five-pocket denim jean first introduced by Levi’s nearly 150 years ago, tweaking everything from fit to finish to hardware to thread. You’ve got Momotaro, Samurai, Tellason, Dawson Denim, Naked & Famous, Companion and so much more. The number of brands from these regions trying their hand at Time’s garment of the 20th century is dizzying.

But a new wave of denimheads has been growing in a country not often included in the selvedge conversation. Indonesia has experienced a growth of cordwaining craftsman that stretches back decades and along with their love of hand-welted boots, the Southeast Asian country has also grown an unrivaled fervor for all things indigo. In pursuit of the sickest fades by way of heavy selvedge denim, custom-woven fabrics and high-level construction techniques that would make any fashion-lover turn their heads, these are just a few of the denim brands giving places like Japan a run for their money.

Oldblue Co.

Oldblue Co. focuses on denim through an Americana heritage approach, focusing on a workwear and western design aesthetic. Think repro five-pocket jeans based on WWII Levi’s, cinch-back jeans made to 1930s standards, duck canvas ranch jackets and chambray work shirts. While the brand takes cues from vintage Americana, it sources fabrics from the U.S., Japan and around Southeast Asia.

44 Repro by Oldblue Co. $195

18 Oz Over-slub Atlantic by Oldblue Co. $185

Work Jacket Type III by Oldblue Co. $175

Sage

While Oldblue Co. sources their fabrics internationally, Sage focuses on selvedge denim milled in-house. Fans of heavyweight denim should look to Sage’s lineup of jeans which tip the scales at 18-ounce on average and go all the way up to beefy 21-ounce denim. Most of its denim come unsanforized, meaning it’ll shrink several sizes with a wash, catering to denimheads seeking a “purer” denim experience. Sage’s approach takes inspiration from nature and the outdoors with their leather patches and graphic tees often depicting animals and camping scenes.

7th Anniversary Special Sierra 18oz Unsanforized by Sage ~$82

Canine Type II 14oz Deep Indigo Denim Jacket by Sage ~$41

Wolvenchief 21oz Unsanforized Deep Indigo by Sage ~$79

Carnivore’s Soul

Gearheads and fans of Iron Heart will feel at home with Carnivore’s Soul which steps to the tune of revved-up motorcycles. The brand offers heavyweight denim from Japan, the U.S., Thailand and Indonesia cut into jeans with rare details like hidden rivets, reversible vests, reinforced truckers jackets and more. Whether you have a hog or not, Carnivore’s Soul products are built to take a beating.

Tigris 17oz Unsanforized Deep Indigo Selvedge by Carnivore’s Soul $75

Two Face Reversible Motorcycle Vest by Carnivore’s Soul $55

15oz Double Elbow Denim Jacket by Carnivore’s Soul $52

Chopperlife Coach Jacket by Carnivore’s Soul $52

Go With Racer Tee by Carnivore’s Soul ~$13

NBDN

While Oldblue Co. and Carnivore’s Soul’s designs take after American aesthetics in a more straightforward approach, NBDN twists heritage details in unexpected ways while adding cues from the wabi-sabi philosophy of Japan. You’ll find chainstitch runoff at the back pockets, trucker jackets with club collars and staid leather patches swapped out for scraps of indigo-dyed fabrics patchworked together with sashiko stitching. Like many of the brands in this list, their library of fabrics shows off interesting denims with unique tints, workwear stripes and scale-busting weights.

Susanoo God of Storm by NBDN $169

Cyclops 14.5oz Deep Rich Dotted Line by NBDN $145

Springfield 66 Blouse Trucker by NBDN $166

Springfield V by NBDN $169

Khaki Canvas 21oz Super Heavyweight Vintage Workpants by NBDN $159

Elhaus

Elhaus stands out among this list for its streetwear-heavy designs. Unlike the rest of the brands here, Elhaus produces collections for each season like fashion houses rather than emphasizing seasonless core garments. The brand got its footing in the beginning with its jeans, which remain popular to this day thanks to 16-ounce denim that’s substantial without being masochistic, available in a variety of colors and outfitted with niche details like shell-stitched fly and offset belt loops. While its denim offering remains straightforward, its seasonal collections riff on military classics like jungle jackets and cargo pants for the denim lover with streetwear leanings.

Thunder Bird Denim Iron Tail 16oz Deep Indigo by Elhaus $196

Jungle Jacket by Elhaus $136

Vagabond Jacket by Elhaus $168

Fender Pants by Elhaus $148

Philosphy T-Shirt by Elhaus $68
What Makes a Pair of Quality Jeans?

In the period of 150 years, blue jeans have transitioned from workwear necessity to fashion staple. The uniquely American garment transcends social class, culture and trends. Though the birth of conventional jeans can be traced by to the early days of Levi’s, it wasn’t until the last half century that the number of boutique denim brands began to grow, and until the last couple decades that premium denim became a category. Read the Story

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

These Are the Best Shoe Releases of the Week

The first week of December brought a whirlwind of shoe releases making it difficult to choose just one pair to cop. But that’s what holiday wish lists are for. You could be coy and subtle, but with shoe releases like these, leaving it up to chance will end in tears. Just link your loved ones to this roundup and give it to ’em straight. From earth-friendly sneaks to Wallabees that put the ‘rug’ in ‘rugged,’ these are the best shoes of the week.

Bodega x Dr. Martens 1461

Streetwear pioneers Bodega have stepped in-line with countercultural English shoemakers Dr. Martens. The collaboration sees Dr. Martens 1461 Smooth shoe outfitted with tonal suede panels at the heel strip and tongue as well as an added captoe. Look for the release to drop online December 7th at 10am EST.

Sterling Ruby Boots

Artist-turned-fashion-designer Sterling Ruby has been met with much fanfare since releasing his first collection this year and his recent release of boots continues to fan the flames. Both all-black lace-up and pull-on styles riff on hardwearing classics and are made in Italy with an imposingly chunky lugged sole attached to grainy leather uppers.

Haven x New Balance 990v5

Canadian streetwear retailer Haven continues its calculated slew of collaborations with New Balance. Taking on its popular 990v5 sneaker, Haven’s stealthy rendition blends luxury materials like supple Horween leather and pigskin suede with tech-forward fabrics like reflective paneling surreptitiously placed beneath breathable Cordura mesh. The collaboration coincides with Haven’s NYC pop-up and releases in-store on Friday, December 6th at 11am local time and online 4pm EST.

Todd Snyder x Clarks Wallabee Boots

For their first-ever collaboration American designer Todd Snyder and English shoemaker Clarks have come up with one of the most eye-catching takes on the Wallabee Boot ever. The collaboration draws on Clarks’ origins as a rug manufacturer and uses archival upholstery fabric for the upper which is lined with supple leather.

Reebok Plant-Based Sneakers

Reebok puts its foot in the race for sustainable sneakers. Dubbed the Forever Floatride Energy, the sneakers boast materials made from castor beans, eucalyptus, algae and natural rubber, forgoing petroleum-based plastics without sacrificing running performance. Reebok took three years to develop the earth-friendly sneakers and you can expect them to drop fall 2020.

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing Albert Einstein Menlo Cossack Jacket

When we think of Albert Einstein, there are so many things that pop into our head before style icon, but the man knew how to wear a leather jacket and look damn good doing it.…

These Handmade Leather Shoes Are Built in the Basement of a Queens Apartment

“I’ll be right out,” I hear muffled somewhere nearby, then echoed through my phone. A door creaks open and I turn around to see Andrew McAteer emerging from basement stairs below to greet me on a quiet suburban street in Astoria, Queens. I follow him down the concrete stairs, careful of the low clearing into the studio space. Entering his basement-turned-studio, we’re able to straighten up, though the clearance is barely enough to accommodate the craftsman himself who stands a few inches above six feet.

The space is an open corridor fixed with fluorescent lights that shine between metal pipes crawling overhead like ivy. Illuminated, iron sewing machines stand at attention, rank and file alongside clicking tables with scraps of leather stashed below. The wall opposite is lined with industrial shelves stocked with patinated tools and boxes filled with who-knows-what. It looks like a workshop for half a dozen craftspeople. In fact, the space previously housed a family. Now its sole occupant is McAteer. It was once segmented into rooms, but over the years working as the building’s superintendent, he’s taken down the walls one by one to reveal what would eventually be the A. E. McAteer studio as we were seeing it.

“It’s been an interesting journey, for sure,” McAteer says. “All of this just periodically happened. Every now again it’s been like, okay I’ve gotta take down another wall or pour some more concrete and put in more lights.”

McAteer is a New Yorker. Not the kind that claims the title after hitting their fifth year here, but the kind whose family has been here for five generations. His childhood home was built in the mid-1800s. It, along with the rickety wooden boat his family acquired later on, was always being fixed up. Between his father’s woodworking and his mother’s gardening, McAteer’s gained foundational home improvement skills that he would eventually use with his own leather goods brand.

He continued acquiring skills, apprenticing with a carpenters union in Virginia specializing in cabinet making and antique restoration. Soon after, McAteer began making his own furniture and was eventually recruited for a campaign furniture company. This new access to materials like leather and canvas directly informed his own creative projects.

“I made a weird-ass bag at first,” he says. “And, the first place I went into was Freeman’s Sporting Club.” This unscheduled meeting with the popular Lower East Side menswear store’s buyer resulted in McAteer’s first order of many.

Appropriately, his most popular product is a leather toolbox. Made from full-grain vegetable-tanned leather, the box is held together with hand-set brass rivets throughout. It looks good enough to have on full display but will look even better with heavy use, as intended. He also makes all-leather slippers with felted wool insoles and leather bowls with brass handles. They’re both more delicate but equally tied to home improvement. On his website, a leather briefcase sits alongside a bucket bag and a log-carrying tote, each of which has its own sort of elegance.

But, what initially caught my eye were his loafers. They look like nothing else out there. Angular yet rustic with heft and handwork, they look homemade in the best sense of the word. The style was inspired by vintage World War I French boots which had been chopped down below the ankle by a veteran. As it turns out, McAteer is also a vintage enthusiast.

The recent wave of craft-minded goods has turned up schools of craftspeople, many of whom start out much like McAteer did, making leather belts and wallets. But what differentiates McAteer from the rest is his incessant need to keep going. Unlike the DIY-ers who rarely dabble beyond leather card wallets, he crafts eye-catching shoes built with his own whittled wooden last.

“Everything I’ve done so far has happened really organically,” he says. “It’s allowed me to slowly grow, get things ready and be able to do this without having to outsource. I’ve been able to keep oversight on everything.”

Currently, McAteer is developing laced shoes. And much like he’s done with his other products, they’ll be from the ground up. For now, the thick Ridgeway soles he uses, the same soles used by storied bespoke cobblers like Edward Green, are imported from England. But before you know it, they’ll be from Queens, designed and cast by McAteer.

Footwear Construction Explained

Often, it’s difficult to picture how a boot is actually put together, where the stitches go and what you’re actually standing on. So we sourced prime examples of each type of boot construction — Cemented, Blake/McKay, True Moccasin, Goodyear Welt and Stitchdown — from some of the top brands in the industry and cut them in half. Read the Story

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

The Anta X Dragon Ball Super Collection Is For Fans Of The Show And Basketball

Last year, Adidas gave us a fantastic set of kicks in collaboration with Dragon Ball Z. The collection highlights some of the show’s most popular characters through distinct design elements of each show. Moreover, these were distributed across different models that were released in batches. Those who were able to collect all seven can even stack the boxes to reveal an awesome surprise. Now, another brand is taking a shot with the hit anime franchise. Let’s take a look at the Anta X Dragon Ball Super collection and what it brings to the table.

In its entirety, the collection includes other apparel aside from the shoes. However, we’re going to focus on the latter. Unlike the German sports apparel company, Anta seems to be promoting its lineup of basketball footwear. We think this is understandable given the Chinese brand is known for its ties with the sport. In fact, it has a series of endorsements from NBA players such as Klay Thompson, Rajon Rondo, Kevin Garnett, and Gordon Hayward.

Meanwhile, the Anta x Dragon Ball Super lineup of shoes have cool elements that fans will love. There are around 11 styles and four models to choose from. Unlike Adidas, this new tie-up aims at the newer episodes of the series. Therefore, these kicks showcase the likes of Son Goku, Vegeta, Frieza, and Goku Black. Furthermore, there are versions that resemble their Super Saiyan forms as well as Super Saiyan Blue. We particularly love the Golden Frieza model and the Goku Black Super Saiyan colourways.

Get it here

Images courtesy of Anta

How to Apply Fragrance, the Right Way

Your fragrance is an investment. It’s one of the more expensive things in your grooming arsenal, and it’s also one of the most personal. You’ve chosen this scent to be your essence, and you want the people you work with and the people you date to feel some type of way — ideally, a positive one — when they encounter it.

So, there’s some precious potion inside that bottle, and you’re wise not to waste it. Which begs the question: What is the most effective way to apply fragrance, so as to not waste any of it, and to maximize its potency?

One thing we can assure you is this: The most effective way is not to spray it recklessly into the air in front of you, then walk into the cloud of perfume particles as they float down. That’s a surefire way to waste your top-dollar essence. Instead, read below for the best places to apply your scent, how to do it properly, and when to reapply throughout the day (if at all).

Where to Apply Your Fragrance

Your pulse points are the primary place to spray fragrance. As the name implies, these are the points on your body at which you can feel your blood pulse—such as your neck, wrists, and inner elbows as far as fragrance application is concerned. Spraying cologne on these spots will help to “warm up” the scent and amplify it. This also gives your fragrance the chance to mix with your skin’s chemistry, generating a unique reaction that can’t be replicated by any other wearer. And best of all, it helps highlight the middle and base notes of the scent, which take more time to release than those initial top notes you smell upon spritzing. It’s these later notes that linger throughout the day, and that will be more prominent if sprayed on pulse points.

It doesn’t hurt to spray one or two pumps elsewhere, like into longer hair or on the collar of your shirt. These won’t enable the same projection nor a unique reaction, but they will carry the scent longer and more subtly. Your body produces oil and sweat that slowly lessen the potency of the scent, so it can be good to have the fragrance “reinforced” someplace unaffected by body heat. At the very least, it allows you to enjoy your own scent well into the evening, without having to reapply.

How to Apply Your Fragrance

The most important thing to note is the strength and sillage (the projection) of your fragrance. If it’s a more powerful scent, like an Eau de Parfum, with a higher concentration of perfume oils, then you should get by with a few spritzes in total, targeting different pulse points with each one. If it’s less powerful, like an Eau de Cologne or Eau de Toilette, then you might consider spraying twice in each pulse point. (This is why prices are steeper for EDPs; they have a higher concentration of perfume oils, and thus don’t need to be applied as heavily or as frequently. It’s worth knowing this the next time you shop for fragrance.)

In general, spraying the scent from three to five inches away should be sufficient enough to help “target” the pulse point, while allowing the fragrance molecules to scatter themselves evenly around the area. Anything further away could cause the particles to disperse in unwanted places, and anything closer doesn’t disperse them enough (the result should never be a drop of cologne dripping down your wrist or neck, so pull it back a couple inches).

It’s best to apply right after a shower in the morning when your circulation is in high gear.

When to Reapply Your Fragrance

By midday, you might assume that your fragrance has worn off when really your nose has just adjusted to the scent and isn’t picking it up as prominently. Others will perceive it more easily than you do. Plus, depending on the strength of your scent — mainly, if it’s a stronger concentration like an EDP — then this subtler “finish” of the scent is one of its best moments. This is why it’s nice to also spray something like your shirt collar in the morning if the scent is simply something that you want to enjoy. But in terms of its life cycle, it should last the entire workday.

Lighter concentrations, like EDTs, might wear off before your afternoon coffee. These concentrations have significantly different recipes from one fragrance to the next, so it’s impossible to offer universal advice. But, if you ever simply want a refresh on any scent, no matter its potency, then do it. Nobody is going to police you on this. But know that you should be able to get through the workday in most cases without requiring it. If you’ve got an after-work date or event, then it’s good to refresh in any case.

7 Mistakes Men Make When Buying Fragrance

There are many things to consider when shopping around for a new scent, like cost, scent families, potency, and even your own patience levels. And if you avoid the common mistakes of shopping for scents, then you are all the likelier to end up with a fragrance you love. Read the Story

What You Should Know About Waterproof Fabrics Before Buying a Rain Jacket

As long as there has been rain, humans have been trying to avoid it. In our long relationship with precipitation, we’ve come up with inventive ways to keep ourselves dry (see: the umbrella, a contraption that dates back several millennia) and there now exists a sea of water-resistant fabrics to keep the stuff at bay. It’s evolved from fish oils and blubber (food as fashion!) to rubberized coats to futuristic three-layer techwear — each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. When you’re considering your next piece of outerwear, here’s what you need to know.

Waxed and Oiled Fabrics

Waxed fabrics first came on the slippery scene when European sailors discovered that wet sails performed better than dry sails. Applying fish oil (and eventually linseed oil) to the sailcloth resulted in sails that were equally efficient but significantly lighter than water-soaked sails. When sails began to wear down, the cloth was then repurposed as waterproof clothing. Today, waxed cotton fabrics are mostly made from paraffin, silicone, beeswax or soy-based oils.

Pros

  • Long-lasting. With proper maintenance, waxed cotton fabrics have been known to last for years and even decades.
  • Better with age. Waxed cotton fabrics develop a highly desirable patina, not unlike that of a well-faded pair of indigo-dyed blue jeans whereas synthetic technical fabrics keep their color and merely break down.
  • Easily reparable. Because waxed fabrics are made with, for the most part, natural materials, they are easier to repair, lengthening the product’s lifespan. Synthetic materials and proprietary materials are more difficult to repair once they are damaged which lowers a products longevity.

Cons

  • Heavy. Though sailors found an oiled sail to be lighter than water-soaked sails, oilcloth is noticeably heavier than their tech-forward counterparts and is a big reason why you don’t see more outdoor sports enthusiasts wearing them.
  • Not as waterproof as other materials. As helpful as waxed fabrics can be in shedding rain, technologically has come a long way and has far surpassed the original waterproof fabric.

Long Haul Jacket by Taylor Stitch $188

Ashby Jacket by Barbour $415

Fieldmaster Jacket by Belstaff $595

Oilcloth Parka by Comme Des Garçons Homme $1360

Rubberized Fabrics

Rubberized fabrics were developed by Charles Macintosh in the early 1800s. The Scottish chemist found a way to use rubber — harvested from the milk of rubber trees — to waterproof cotton fabrics, and the rainproof coat we know simply as a “Mac” was born. Today, Mackintosh still makes its coats the same way, but advancements in rubberized fabrics have spawned variations. While more traditional rubberized coats like Mackintosh use rubber material sandwiched between two layers of fabric, other coats are made with either plastic coating (either PVC or Polyurethane) sprayed onto fabric.

Pros

  • Highly waterproof. Rubberized fabrics are well-known for their waterproof capabilities and are notably more waterproof than waxed fabrics.

Cons

  • Heavy and stiff. Rubberized fabrics tend to be heavier and have a stiff drape, making them uncomfortable for many people. Vinyl and other plastic-coated fabrics tend to be lighter and have a lighter drape than their rubberized counterparts, however.
  • Low breathability. Rubberized fabrics, while extremely waterproof, lack breathability.
  • Rubber eventually dries out and is irreparable. Over time, the rubber will lose its moisture and degrade. Though the hydrophobic coatings applied to rubberized and vinyl coats can be re-applied, damaged garments are more difficult to repair.
  • Synthetics. Rainproof rubber and vinyl garments are coated with synthetic coatings which have been linked to harmful toxins.

EVA Adult Poncho by Red Ledge $7

Waterproof Hooded Long Rain Jacket by Rains $125

Stockholm Rain Coat by Stutterheim $295

Dunoon Classic Mac by Mackintosh $1119

Technical Fabrics

The next evolution of waterproof materials came in 1969 with Gore-Tex. Building upon the layered designs of Mackintosh, Gore-Tex fabric was made of a membrane with pores small enough to prevent water droplets from penetrating but large enough to let water vapor escape. An exterior layer added a protective barrier between the elements and the delicate membrane while a soft inner layer bookended it for comfort. There are variations on this basic concept, each of which vary in its waterproofness and breathability.

Pros

  • Extremely waterproof. Advancements in fabric technology has resulted in unprecedented waterproof capabilities.
  • Breathable. These technological leaps in fabrics have also resulted in fabrics that repel rain while also remaining highly breathable, an elusive balance fabric developers continue to improve upon.
  • Lightweight. Technical fabrics manage to shed water and weight. The combination of waterproofness, breathability and lightweight characteristics make products like Gore-Tex and eVent ideal for highly active outdoors sports like skiing and hiking.

Cons

  • Lower durability. As far as technology has come, technical fabrics will not last nearly as long as waxed cotton fabric. A technical fabric’s DWR coating can be re-activated and re-applied with time, but because they’re made using synthetic materials, they can’t be repaired easily. Their lightweight characteristics also contribute to their lack of durability.
  • Synthetic. Synthetic materials tend to be more difficult to repair as so much of the fabric is proprietary.

Minimalist Gore-Tex Waterproof Hooded Jacket by Marmot $189

Cloud Ridge Jacket by Patagonia $249

Gore-Tex Soutien Collar Coat by Nanamica $665

Packable Garment-Dyed Gore-Tex Hooded Jacket by Stone Island $1030
Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

Join The Dark Side With The Oris Prodiver Star Wars Darth Vader Limited Edition

The Force is growing stronger each day as the premier of the Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker edges closer. As such, being the geeks that we are, the hunt begins for some of the coolest gear that pays homage to the franchise. Earlier, Men’s Gear brought you the Samsung Galaxy Note 10+ Star Wars Special Edition, which is definitely on our wish list. Other items you might have seen grace our pages include furniture, footwear, fitness equipment, robotic vacuum cleaners, and awesome LEGO sets. Now, Oris joins the fun and brings glory to the empire with Star Wars Darth Vader Limited Edition.

This ominous offering takes the Prodiver model and coats it in a menacing dark tint that will make fans swoon. Let’s face it, the baddies always look cooler than the good guys and we love how it carries over to the timepiece. Unless you stare at it closely, Oris did a fine job balancing the Star Wars elements as not to make the watch too tasteless for some. The titanium case measures 49 mm and sports a stylish shade of black plating. The bezel, dial, and hands are likewise in black save for the second hand which is in red.

The Oris Prodiver Star Wars Darth Vader Limited Edition features a silhouette of the Death Star and the Imperial crest on the dial. You really need to look closer to see it, but the iconic TIE Fighter of the supreme commander sits on the 12 o’clock marker on the bezel. Another cool element is on the case back which shows Darth Vader’s helmet. The watch runs on an Oris 748 calibre with a 38-hour power reserve. Finally, the black silicone bracelet completes the ensemble.

Get it here

Images courtesy of Oris

Black Friday Steals 2019 [Updating Regularly]

Welp. Here we go again. Black Friday / Cyber Monday / Cyber Week–aka the busiest shopping time of the year. As with every year that has preceded it, there are plenty of great things on…

        

Give the Gift of Custom with a Unique Nixon Watch

When it comes to the watch you wear everyday, you have a lot of options. Nixon has always made some of our favorites because of their unique combination of sleek exterior, quality construction and everyday…

The Ball Engineer Master II Normandy Pays Homage To D-Day With 750 Examples Only

Some of the most eye-catching wristwatches we’ve seen often link to something important. Sometimes, it could be a company milestone, a bespoke design, or a tribute to a notable historical event. The Engineer Master II Normandy from Ball belongs to the latter as it pays homage to one of the most iconic battles of World War 2. This is when the allied troops stormed the beaches of Normandy eventually overpowering the Nazi forces and making its mark in history. Ball celebrates the 75th anniversary of D-Day with this beautiful timepiece.

There are two versions of this elegant timekeeper that flaunts different colours on the dial. Feature-wise however, both are practically the same. The case is stainless steel and measures 44 mm. The bezel is a rotating bi-directional stainless-steel component that frames the anti-reflective sapphire crystal lens. Moreover, this special edition wristwatch is powered by BALL RR1408-C automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

Flipping to the rear of the watch shows a transparent case back with a sapphire crystal window. Aside from giving the user a peek into the complications within, the engravings marking the number is also available. Basically, only 750 examples of the Engineer Master II Normandy will be available for purchase.

Going back to the dial, here we have 21 micro-gas tubes evenly distributed among the components.  It is on the indices, minute hand, hour hand, and second hand. Meanwhile, These allow the user to check the time in low-light conditions. The Engineer Master II Normandy comes with a matching stainless steel bracelet along with a folding buckle.

Order it here

Images courtesy of Ball

Like Ray-Ban Sunglasses? Upgrade to These Shades Next

In 1936, the U.S. Armed Forces teamed up with Bausch and Lomb to produce eyewear that countered light to help fighter pilots deal with eye strain at higher altitudes. The result is one you’re likely familiar with: Aviator sunglasses that featured convex tear-drop glass lenses and thin metal frames. Originally called ‘Anti-Glares,’ the frames were rebranded ‘Ray-Ban’ upon release to the public.

Ray-Ban’s sunglasses have graced some of the most famous faces of the past 100 years, from mirrored aviators on General Douglas Macarthur (incidentally, the first mirrored sunglasses ever put into production) to black Wayfarers on the Blues Brothers. Chances are, you’re a fan of one of the brand’s three classic styles: the Wayfarer, the Aviator and the Round sunglasses.

These are iconic for good reason, but if you’re looking to upgrade your standard shades to something new, there are a number of solid choices. Here are a few of our favorites.

Krewe x Billy Reid Howell Sunglasses

If you wear Wayfarer sunglasses: This fall, Alabama-based designer teamed up with New Orleans-based eyewear brand Krewe for a fresh take some classic styles. The Howell sunglasses feature a sculpted acetate frame, amber gradient lenses and 24K gold hardware. They’re refinded, effortlessly stylish and relatively affordable — hard to argue with that.

Garrett Leight California Optical Marr Sunglasses

If you wear Aviator sunglasses: These square aviators from Los Angeles eyewear brand GLCO have a number of subtle design enhancements. The gold-toned stainless steel frame has tortoise lens rims and temple tips. The subtle brow bar is accented by the gold hinges, and the semi-flat Brown Smoke lenses have an anti-reflective coating.

Barton Perreira x Robert Geller Harald Sunglasses

If you wear Round sunglasses: Handmade in Japan, these titanium frames are an ornate collaboration between one of the best brands in the business — Barton Perreira — and legendary menswear designer Robert Geller. The vintage-inspired style features subtle filigree detailing on the bridge and temples (the textured temples are joined seamlessly with the acetate temple tips). For the most classic style, pick the Bottle Green CR-39 lenses with an anti-reflective coating — if you want something more edgy, opt for the gradient Cherry Moon Mirror lenses.

Or Consider These Japanese Sunglasses

Italy has long reigned in the realm of premium eyewear, but a profusion of average frame construction has diminished its reputation among industry experts. Their new darling? Japan, where eyewear manufacturing is concentrated in the Fukui Prefecture. Read the Story
Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

The Dango D007 Goldfinger Is An EDC Wallet Every Spy Should Have

The holidays are fast approaching it’s the season for gift-giving all over again. We understand the challenge it brings to find the perfect present for your family and friends. Hence, Men’s Gear once again offers our services and give our readers awesome suggestions. You know that we love EDCs and so will the guy that you’re going to handing it to. So, here is the D007 Goldfinger pen wallet from the awesome people at Dango. Every guy secretly wants to be a secret agent and this brings them one step closer to that goal.

Inspired by the iconic James Bond this elegant bi-fold wallet is ready for any mission. While some you might be familiar with Dango’s more minimalist offerings, the D007 Goldfinger is a more classic approach. This limited-edition wallet features a sophisticated aesthetic with the gold accents against black. Each of the four pockets can hold up to four cards each, with an additional pocket for a pen.

The company draws the design from its Dapper Wallet. With a bit of tweaking, you’re looking at a beautiful item that any man will want. The metal chassis is fashioned from 6061 aerospace-grade aluminium polished and anodized in gold. The integrated bottle opener alone makes it worthy of the space inside our pockets.

That Dango D007 Goldfinger even comes with an exclusive polished gold pen. It is crafted from the same material as the wallet’s chassis. It sports silicone o-rings to enhance grip and includes a Schmidt 4889M black ink refill. Additionally, it is compatible with Fisher space ink refills as well. Since it already comes with a writing instrument, the other section of its top-grain bi-fold holds a notebook.

Get it here

Images courtesy of Dango

The Elago AW6 AirPods Case Is A Retro Tribute To An Iconic Portable Music Player

The tech industry knows that Apple products are considerably expensive and with mid-tier specifications. Some might argue that you are paying for quality and reliability, but it’s not always the case. For around the same price as a shiny new device from the Cupertino tech outfit, consumers can grab something even better. Nevertheless, one thing we love about the brand is the amazing selection of third-party accessories. Furthermore, these are available for the majority of its products. For those of you who have the AirPods check out the AW6 from Elago for that little dash of nostalgia.

That’s right, look closer and you can see that this protective case resembles the most popular portable music player in the world. This is a quirky but perfect accessory to keep your AirPods looking new. Elago specializes in premium silicone products that protect your gadgets from bumps and scrapes. Given that the charging case of your Airpods is prone to scuffing and discolouration it’s a good idea give it a protective layer.

Not only does it keep the charging case in pristine condition, but the AW6 also does not interfere with wireless charging. As long as you own the wireless charging case it should work without a hitch. Meanwhile, since the second-generation model is no different from the original in terms of shape and size. It will fit as well. Overall, we think it’s a great product and an awesome tribute to the iPod. Elago is offering two versions of the AirPods case: Black with a red click wheel or white with a grey click wheel. Overall, it actually does not matter which one you choose because they both look classy.

Buy it here

Images courtesy of Elago

You Can (and Should) Tailor Your Jeans to Fit You Perfectly. Here’s What You Need to Know

Unless you’re about to relay a mortgage payment for a pair of custom, bespoke jeans, finding the perfect-fitting pair can be, facetiously, the most fun one person can have during their one life to live. Statistically speaking, you’re likely one of the hundreds of millions of people suffering from poor-fitting jeans. But don’t worry, it’s not your body that’s the issue. You’re perfect just the way you are.

You can get jeans that fit you great off the rack. And with a little bit of tailoring, you can get them to fit you damn-near perfectly. Tailoring jeans, a hard-wearing garment meant for the masses, might sound excessive. But if you live in your jeans every day, even the smallest alterations can make a huge difference.

Altering your jeans isn’t the same as altering a pair of dress pants, though. It requires a bit more finesse and comes with more precautions for each operation. Here’s what you need to know.

Preliminary Steps

Start with a pair of jeans that’s somewhat close to the fit you hope to achieve. Think of this process more like a haircut. You can always take more off, but you can’t really put any back on. So, make sure that the jeans are too big rather than too small.

Wash your jeans before heading to the tailor. Diehard never-wash denimheads might cringe, but washing and drying your jeans will get rid of shrinkage and help get you a more accurate fit when it comes time to visit your tailor.

Hemming

Jeans that are too long will break up the style’s overall silhouette. The fabric can pool on top of your shoes and creating a bunched-up shape. Even worse, you’re more likely to step on jeans that are too long (and trip because of it).

Bring the shoes that you wear most often with your jeans to the tailor and wear them when the tailor is marking or pinning your jeans at the desired length. This will help you properly visualize the right length you’re after. While trying on the jeans with your tailor, don’t be afraid to ask them a few times to adjust the length before they finalize the measurement and err on the side of too long, just in case. That said, there are a few different ways to have your jeans hemmed.

  • Lockstitch: This is the easiest, most common way a tailor will be able to hem your jeans. It’s a simple lockstitch that’s done with the most basic of sewing machines. This goes by different names including topstitched hem or simply “regular hem” — you should get this if you just want your jeans shorter, plain and simple.
  • Chainstitch: If you’re a real denim head, a chainstitched hem is what you should get. Though jeans weren’t originally invented with this detail, they have been hemmed like this for long enough that it’s subtly part of a blue jean’s DNA. Not every tailor will be able to do this, so be sure to ask if they can do a chainstitch hem before agreeing. (Make sure you to specify a chainstich hem, not an original hem.)
  • Original hem: An original hem is mostly used when jeans are already pre-faded. The tailor essentially cuts off the hem from the pre-faded jeans, shortens the leg to the appropriate length and reattaches the hem to the new length. This preserves the natural puckered fades of the jean which would otherwise be lost in a basic hem.

Taper

Tapering jeans is the second most common jean alteration. When your jeans aren’t slim enough for your liking, a tailor can alter your jeans to fit as slim as you like. There are some precautions to note.

Tapering your jeans can really only be done below the crotch. Though it’s technically possible because, well, anything is possible, having your jeans slimmed above the crotch is more effort than it’s worth.

For selvedge-loving denimheads, make sure your tailor can taper your jeans from the inseam. Most tapering jobs are done on the outseam which will effectively alter the width of the selvedge. If you cuff your jeans, hoping to show off your insider knowledge that is your selvedge, you’ll also be showing off the fact that you went to a bad tailor. Getting it done right does come at a higher cost as most jean inseams are constructed with either overlocked stitching or felled seams, thus making them more difficult and laborious to undo and alter. Expect to pay more for this once you find the right tailor who can do the job.

Waist

A great- (or decent-)fitting seat is often accompanied by a loose waist. You can find yourself constantly picking up your jeans throughout the day. If both the seat and waist fit too loosely, you’d likely be better off finding smaller pants. While a belt is a simple solution, having the waist taken in is a more elegant route.

It’s possible to have the waist taken in by a tailor, but this is more of a delicate procedure. Because jeans aren’t built with easily-altered seats and waists, there’s more room for error and even less room to let out. A good tailor will take in the waist at the back, directly in the center. This is a tricky operation since both the center seam and the belt loop sit at this point and it requires a surgical hand to undo and restitch them. If done correctly, the center back seam will look the same and the cut that the tailor has made at the waist band will be hidden by the belt loop. Be sure to ask if your tailor can take in the waist from the back and expect to pay around $50 depending on your tailor.

Seat

The seat is the trickiest alteration to have done. If you can avoid this, do so. If you’ve searched high and low for jeans without finding one with a decently-fitting seat, be prepared to do even more searching for the right tailor to do the job.

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.